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Thanks John not sure struggling for time at the minute work commitments keep interfering, the target at the minute is the Kames sprint on the 19th May although I cant honestly see that happening.
Big thanks to John S and John Mcg for all the help into the early hours of sunday morning getting the engine timed and back into the car. Its a big step forward and I can now get on with doing the fuel system as I am replacing most of it and also see what needs altered from last year.
Well it’s been a few weeks since I updated the thread.
I have made some progress but given the hours I have put in the car is nowhere near where it needs to be. Progress has been slow and very very frustrating; I have never come across so many compatibility issues as I have this year round.
The engine is eventually in so I am in the process of mocking things up to see what has changed and try and work out what I need parts wise and what can be reused. I have been pleasantly surprised by how much bonnet clearance I have, this will allow me to raise the inlet manifold which helps with clearance of the turbo compressor output pipe work as it runs under the manifold.
Also decided to uprate the engine mounts. Had been looking at these for a while so decided to get a set from Kev at Scoobyclinic. Very well made and should be a good bit stiffer than the hardrace ones, to be fair the hardrace ones are very good and for the limited time they were fitted they worked very well. I wont be using the 5 speed gearbox mount that came as part of the kit so will prob have it and the hardrace engine mounts for sale.
I have also just about completed the fuel set up in the boot just got a couple of pipes to make up and then bolt everything down and that’s done. Will then look to sort the front. I have already fitted the hard pipes back in and have 3 of the 8mm pipes, 2 feeds one return. AN fittings also fitted to both ends of the hard pipes. All the pipework at the rear changed to Teflon. Big thanks to Alex from Torques for all his help wih the fuel side of things.
Mock up with small tank
And with the big tank
Front suspension and brakes now complete, just new pads required and bleed the brakes.
Rear suspension almost complete. Just need to sort out a rear diff carrier, which is causing an issue due to my inability to weld so that is becoming a stumbling block.
I have hopefully sorted my prop issue by having a local company change the UJ at one end so should have that back on Tue, another expense I could have done without but hey there’s no legislating for Subaru's ability to change things from year to year.
I also got lucky when I found Adam from T6 customs.
I asked Adam to airbrush a saltire onto my cam covers and was a happy bunny when these arrived the other day. The quality of the work is superb the pictures do not do the covers justice. Will get some more pics of these once they are on the car.
Lots still to do before the car is anywhere neat ready so becoming concerned time wise. I have decided to give it another 2 weeks and then look to make a decision on the viability of getting the car out at all this year.
Cam cover looks brilliant Archie, coulden't you aim for later in the season to get some time in and iron out any little defects/problems so your ready to go 100% for next season?
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Tuned by Andy Forrest Performance.
Just a bit stiffer no other reason, was pretty happy with the hardrace ones but know a few guys with these so thought I would give them a go.
If anyone is intersted in getting anything airbrushed onto any parts i.e cam covers rocker covers etc I really cant recommend Adam highly enough. His email address is t6customs@hotmail.co.uk if anyone is interested drop him mail.
All looks really good Arch...I've been thinking of putting a Jap rising sun on my cam cover nd I think you have made up my mind, your Saltire looks amazing
Ian drop Adam an email with your ideas you wont be disapointed I had it in mind what I wanted but the end result is so much better than I had imagined.
Not managed much time on the car over the last week or so but got 3 full days now to get as much done as possible.
Managed to get the fuel set up plumbed in at the rear and it seems to work well in terms of fit so that I can swap tanks without moving anything around. All the hose is teflon now so shouldnt have to do this again.
few pics below with the small tank and slightly bigger tank.
And the bigger tank
Connections underneath to hard pipes. I have used three 8mm hard pipes, two for the supply and one return.
Huge thanks to Alex from Torques for all the help with various bits, service well above and beyond - thanks.
I have also sorted my prop issue by having the Universal Joint replaced at the diff end so its now a perfect fit for the 95mm flange. Very neat job and its a far better UJ than the standard items. The guy doing the job commented on how poor they were and how they have replaced a fair few on 6 speed props but not so many on the earlier 5 speed props.
Also got my TGV deletes back and all cleaned up ready to fit a set of Carl Daveys billet rails.
Plan for tomorrow, well today now, is mock up the engine ancillaries and inlet manifold and see what size spacers i can get away with as I am struggling to find a 20mm spacer anywhere. Also work out what fuel fittings and hose i need for the engine side as well as that hopefully start fabricating the rear diff mount.
Ian drop Adam an email with your ideas you wont be disapointed I had it in mind what I wanted but the end result is so much better than I had imagined.
I will drop him mail tomorrow Arch. I notice you are using pre and post pump filters...any reason?
Mainly as a result of advice. The pre filter is to give some protection to the pump and the post pump filter is there to protect the injectors hence the better filters on the post pump side.
Mainly as a result of advice. The pre filter is to give some protection to the pump and the post pump filter is there to protect the injectors hence the better filters on the post pump side.
My swirl pot is going under the bonnet so only really have room for one...perhaps I'll should out the Syvecs filter and bite the bullet on a Fuel Lab
The sytec filters are not that bad the problem is the metal element is to big for post pump and I was advised to use a 10 micron post pump as opposed to the 8 micron sytec paper elelemt but to be honest I have run the car for 5 years with only the 8 micron filter pre-pump and never had an issue although I do agree that 8 micron pre-pump is a little small if it restricts at all it could cause the pump to cavitate, i personally didnt notice it but my car does very few miles and its all track based.
just to clarify the Sytec filters come with a 55micron Metail filter as normal but can be specced (or altered later) to take an 8micron Paper filter.......
Location: 9th @ TOTB 2012 Handling for team 22B.com
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Trials, if your swirlpot is in the engine bay then I assume you have a lift pump in the oe tank?
If so then the lift pump will already have a sock filter to protect from stuff in the tank, this is what Arch's pre pump filter does. So you only need one filter post the pump after the swirlpot
Location: oop north in a spec-c.Now sold and starting on a classic ra track/sprint/road car
Posts: 1,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch
Cool will be in touch, your right checked and they come with the 8 micron paper element.
Archie, Alyn sorted my filters out and specced them for what I wanted /needed which was metal filter element pre pump 55micron as tank is baffle foam filled in the boot,and 8 micron paper post pump to fuel rails which i think will be fine to protect the pump and injectors from bits in the tank/fuel
Archie, Alyn sorted my filters out and specced them for what I wanted /needed which was metal filter element pre pump 55micron as tank is baffle foam filled in the boot,and 8 micron paper post pump to fuel rails which i think will be fine to protect the pump and injectors from bits in the tank/fuel
Alyn supplied my fuelab filters I already had the others.
More progress all be it slow. Managed to fit the solid shifter bush kit from SD Motorsports which should make a huge difference to the feel of the change on the 6 speed. I had previously tried a B&M quick shift and it was horrible so it came off straight away.
Also had this arrived again from Steven - thanks appreciate all the help recently.
And fitted
The tatty bracket in the pic is for the downpipe its just hanging loose in the pic when tightened its well clear of the cradle. I test fitted the downpipe as it was custom made on the car but no clearance issues at all so all good.
Made a start on the fabrication for the rear diff support so hopefully finish that tomorrow.
Mocked up the engine bay fuel plumbing so will hopefully crack on with that over the weekend in between work. Once thats complete its a case of fitting all the ancillaries to the engine and start looking at the wiring.
Starting to see light at the end of the tunnel although still so much to do.
Diff mount fabricated today so that just needs welding. Pipemaster tool I bought for marking the profiled ends on the bars works a treat takes most of the pain out of creating fish mouth profiles gets the joints pretty close first time then it just needs a final tweek.
Also made a start on the fuel plumbing for the engine side although not much to do there so wont take long to make the necessary pipes up for that.
Next up mount all the ancilliries onto the engine and fit hinges etc to the front fibreglass doors, rears already done so nothing required there other than paint, hopefully.
Location: oop north in a spec-c.Now sold and starting on a classic ra track/sprint/road car
Posts: 1,956
Arch I presume you are bolting through the plate to lift the diff....neat idea using the cage as the integral strengthener/hanger ..are you going to have to alter the tunnel further inboard for the prop??
I would like to say its my idea but its not lol. Its the same way Steven has done the Banana and similar to the way John Stevenson done his so the idea and advice was from them. I was going to fabricate something across the chassis legs but it was becoming to complex and the bracing required would have started to negate any weight saving.
Yes I will bolt through the plate and use small spacers to set the height. At the minute it will be set at standard height but for the future the intention is raise the diff.
Location: oop north in a spec-c.Now sold and starting on a classic ra track/sprint/road car
Posts: 1,956
Archie with that set up you will be doing away with the T bar I presume as it will serve no purpose now ?? did you get my PM regarding engine mounts btw (can't remember if I sent my question to you or not).
what was the reason for changing the engine mounts ??? .
