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I ran a WRX-S for 14k trouble free miles on 95 Ron, as i didnt know any better, and i came from an Astra VXR, i then traded up to a new Saloon and now have 13k trouble free.
Ask the dealer for its history, failing that Ring IM group with reg and im sure they will tell you if its ok etc.
And as Paul said if your a guy who loads his car with Women and screws the tits off round Mcdonalds then maybe dont go there LOL, i have these people screw past my house every night in there Pimped Up Micras Focus etc, but i hazard a guess your more mature
The problem with this thread is that you will only really hear from people that have had something bad happen, not many people are going to pipe up and say.."oh my engine is running fine!" lol.
From what a lot of tuners are telling me, the amount of STi owners that are running their cars on 95 RON is astounding, no surprise then that engines are detting all over the place.
My 2007 2.5 STi Hawk Non-PPP is on 32000 miles now, myself and the 1 prev owner have only ran the car on none other then Shell or Tesco 99, it always has Shell lubricants also and I do a filter and oil change at 5k miles. Im not soft with the car either, but I set the shift beeper to 5500 RPM and never exceed it past the red.
I had scoobyclinic do a leakdown test when I bought it with 18900 miles on the clock and she was sweet, also running 298.6 HP with NO mods.
When I got it mapped at Scoobyworld, Neil said it was running a bit rich, but not enough to cause problems, a decat/walbro/K&N has me running 345/370 now and she feels healthier and stronger then ever.
Always gonna get bad apples in car production, maybe it was the very generic PPP ECU and bad fuels that caused a lot of the issues I dunno, It is bad though for 2008 cars going though...awful infact. My sympathies to those that suffered.
Still not put me off though... Evo's have AYC and Diff issues.. Id rather the Scoob anyday though.
i dont see any now, this threads died a bit, im on 16k 2011 STI and going strong. Always use 97+ where i can get it, never had 95 in, and have it serviced when im supposed to 10k. Next one coming up soon, also new tyres i think GULP !!!
i dont see any now, this threads died a bit, im on 16k 2011 STI and going strong. Always use 97+ where i can get it, never had 95 in, and have it serviced when im supposed to 10k. Next one coming up soon, also new tyres i think GULP !!!
welcome to my world except I got through a set of tyres every year & of late it's been a set of rims every year as I get bored easilly
Hi,
My MY07 WRX 2.5L has just suffered from this problem.
Has anybody managed to get anywhere with Subaru regarding these failures ?
I plan to send my 'bill' to Subaru's UK MD/CEO to see what happens!
I saw somewhere that Subaru had recalled/fixed these cars in the USA, why not here?
Surely, that's a precedent. Its very wrong.....my garage spoke to Subaru's own
engineers and they knew what was wrong with the car before the garage said
anything - that to me, indicates a 'fault' - goods not fit for purpose, we must have
a way of getting some compensation over this - what about a mass 'Watchdog'
complaint ? (Apologies if this has been done, already).
Well your out of warrenty firstly so maybe just unlucky but also never seen a wrx go pop well none of the 2008s did I don't think
Also did you do anything to it ie remap exhaust, common theme is pay to play or be pre pared to foot a bill if it's goes pop.
Unsure if they did anything legally as a fix was released to altr the dodgy 2008 map as for your 2007 I can't comment but it's the same engine as the hawker which as far as I'm aware didn't have this issue only gasket ones, but I could be wrong
Hi,
My MY07 WRX 2.5L has just suffered from this problem.
Has anybody managed to get anywhere with Subaru regarding these failures ?
I plan to send my 'bill' to Subaru's UK MD/CEO to see what happens!
I saw somewhere that Subaru had recalled/fixed these cars in the USA, why not here?
Surely, that's a precedent. Its very wrong.....my garage spoke to Subaru's own
engineers and they knew what was wrong with the car before the garage said
anything - that to me, indicates a 'fault' - goods not fit for purpose, we must have
a way of getting some compensation over this - what about a mass 'Watchdog'
complaint ? (Apologies if this has been done, already).
A fed-up (and skint) Scoob fan......
Trish.
Best of luck with that.
9 out 10 big end failures on the 2.5 are the result of ringland issues causing high oil consumption, & owners not checking oil levels often enough to see this trend emerging, hence next to no oil in the engine causing bearing failure.
This has been highlighted of late by the amount of Hatch STI's, still in warranty, being sold with engine failures that Subaru UK will not warrant.
Also while your chasing Subaru you could also go down the failed oil pick up pipe route on the 2.5 engine, i think there's more lost engines to that, that people have chased Subaru for than any other single failure mode, especially in the US.
This has been highlighted of late by the amount of Hatch STI's, still in warranty, being sold with engine failures that Subaru UK will not warrant.
My STi which hasn't had any failure but is just out of warranty has not attracted the usual offer of extended warranty from IM. No faith in their product?
Well, that's my 09 WRX warranty out as of 31st March so I'm on my own now!
Just clicked over 30k miles and in for service next week, no problems to date.
I did run it on 95RON for first 2-3 months but didn't know any different as my filler cap clearly states '95RON only'. Had PPP fitted and found at that point should by filled with super - never had anything but v-power in it since with a book of receipts (and a depleted bank) to prove in case of a problem. Not that matters now!
I'd agree with checking the oil pickup pipe, Whilst mine is out of warranty I noticed on my gauges that the oil pressure was fluctuating quite allot to the point of there being half a bar in pressure difference, Whipped the sump off to be presented with a cracked oil pickup pipe basically hanging on by 7mm of metal. Nearly lost a fully forged engine to this, Thanks to Pauls advice about the pipes fracturing this was sorted relativly quickly
Whipped the sump off to be presented with a cracked oil pickup pipe basically hanging on by 7mm of metal.
Hi Rob.
For the ignorant (especially me) when you said "whipped the sump off", how long does that job take roughly (for an experienced Technician) ?
__________________
I promised I wouldn't spend as much on this one as the last one ..........
Insurance - too hot for Saga, but cool for Gary M at Keith Michaels
Hi Rob.
For the ignorant (especially me) when you said "whipped the sump off", how long does that job take roughly (for an experienced Technician) ?
Pitchstopper off, Undo the lower engine mounts, Jack the front of the engine up so you can gain access to the 4 bolts hidden by the subframe, Ring of bolts and pry the sump off with the special tool.
20 mins if that to get it off, then be prepared to be covered in oil dripping off the baffle plate lol
Thanks Rob.
For the sake of a relatively small job (in the grand scheme of things) it sounds like something worth doing periodically in order to prevent a possible costly failure.
As a matter of general interest what would it cost for someone like you to do, including replacing the oil pipe (which you might as well do while its apart) ?
Also, does the oil pressure just fluctuate on steady revs on stationary throttle ? or
would lifting the throttle briefly and re-pressing it without changing the revs cause a change in oil pressure ?
Sorry to ask all these questions.
__________________
I promised I wouldn't spend as much on this one as the last one ..........
Insurance - too hot for Saga, but cool for Gary M at Keith Michaels
Thanks Rob.
For the sake of a relatively small job (in the grand scheme of things) it sounds like something worth doing periodically in order to prevent a possible costly failure.
As a matter of general interest what would it cost for someone like you to do, including replacing the oil pipe (which you might as well do while its apart) ?
Also, does the oil pressure just fluctuate on steady revs on stationary throttle ? or
would lifting the throttle briefly and re-pressing it without changing the revs cause a change in oil pressure ?
Sorry to ask all these questions.
the oil pressure on mine was fluctuating at 3000rpm, which has never been seen to that level before, Granted you do see some level of AVCS activity at that point which is dependant on oil pressure but half a bar seems quite allot considering the amount of oil contained within those pulleys.
thew other way of noticing thanks to Pauls info was the oil light not going out immediatly on startup, it tended to hang on for a few seconds more than normal. I thought my oil sender was knackered so did away with it and used my gauges as the alarm for low oil pressure.
your talking around £47 for the oil pickup pipe & an hours labour (£50) to do the job all together all prices plus VAT
I know for sure I'll be keeping a close eye on this from now on, even though I am building another engine shortly for mine.
Thanks again for the info Rob.
If I was keeping mine I'd definately book mine in with you later this year for a peace of mind replacement.
Good luck with your new engine - assume its one of the cdb conversions ?
__________________
I promised I wouldn't spend as much on this one as the last one ..........
Insurance - too hot for Saga, but cool for Gary M at Keith Michaels
Thanks again for the info Rob.
If I was keeping mine I'd definately book mine in with you later this year for a peace of mind replacement.
Good luck with your new engine - assume its one of the cdb conversions ?
I was looking at those at Litchos last year - seem like a very good step up for not a huge amount of money (all things considered !).
Any output targets ?
__________________
I promised I wouldn't spend as much on this one as the last one ..........
Insurance - too hot for Saga, but cool for Gary M at Keith Michaels
I was looking at those at Litchos last year - seem like a very good step up for not a huge amount of money (all things considered !).
Any output targets ?
500-550 for an everyday road car, Not looking to do it all of a sudden, will be building it up over a period of months when work gets a bit quieter
Needs more than an engine, aircon pumps missing, starter motor is missing, exhaust downpipe. clutch fork & thrust bearing, Radiator & cooling fans.
and judging by the length of time the aircon has been uncoupled you'll need a new reciever dryer for it too
No v5 either.
why is he selling, perhaps he's realised its gonna cost a ****load to get the specific engine for that.
.... Hot Pink for this year.
