wms-racing

When an engine fails it will cause damage, the bores will probably get scored (re-bore required) and 99% of the time when they start knocking it takes the crank out, new crank required. it also takes alot longer to clean out an engine thats failed + you need a new modine.
Rebore, crank and modine + another 4 hrs labour for the cleaning +£700 ish

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

If your travelling along at say 3600 RPM and the dreaded happens :-

1. You take one or two seconds to react. 120 turns of the engine.
2. You have to slow down and stop, perhaps your on a motorway or main road and can't just stop. 1800 revolutions of the engine.
3. You finally stop and switch the engine off, 3 seconds at a guess. 180 revolutions of the engine.

That's about 2100 revolutions of an engine with bit's potentially breaking up and going into oil chambers, modine, cylinders heads, valves etc etc. If your RPM's are higher then expotencially the damage will be worse.

Unless you hit an imoveable object you cannot "stop immediately" and by putting the clutch in will you stop the damage? No, the engine still turns until the ignition is off.

clyne 08

Multiply all them figures by 6 if the wife is driving when it happens! If your lucky or she may just continue to tesco or until the car seizes then call you and say the car seems funny!

Seahound007

LMAO

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

It might affect the big end bearings

True, big end shells are not expensive but the crank will be ruined in a big end failure and that is expensive. Plus most folks don't clean the internals of the engine properly when doing a catastrophic failure and particles get sucked back in to the fresh engine and it starts its life weakened.

Engine builders stories are usually based on fact to advise the consequences of not doing the stitch in time. My job is to make sure that anyone that asks about a repair, gets data and reliable costings that they can make a decision on. If they choose to ignore advice that is their decision.

Budget? sure everyone has a budget and it needs to spread as far as possible in all cases. BUT as I have said before:

" There never enough money to do it right, but there is always enough money to do it twice ......."

David

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

VERY TRUE.

But in my opinion Sebastien Vettel might react in 2 seconds. Most cars have the stereo on and the failure noise needs to rise above road sound and so on as well.

So the likely delay time is probably going to be 30 seconds between start of noise and realisation of a problem. That is what does the damage. The whole thing is tearing itself to pieces long before the noise starts. Then once the protecting soft metal of the bearing surface is wiped away, that is when it gets serious.

The Subaru oil pump has a delivery rate of about 9 gallons a minute which means that in 30 seconds 4.5 gallons has travelled round the entire engine. There is about a gallon in the engine sump So all the oil has been round the engine 4.5 times taking fine particles everywhere.

The filter?, sure, it does as best it can, but the flat four config allows oil [ and particles ]to slosh into the bores and that gets up the side of the pistons and damages the lower portion of the liners. In an upright engine that doesn't happen of course, in a Subaru it is a significant problem.

David

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

It amazes me that so few people realise the flow rate of a standard oil pump, not just on a Subaru, but any tin pot shopping car. Anyone who has had the misfortune to split/break an oil filter (erm, me ) will know how quick the sump gets emptied of its entire contents of oil (in the space of 30 seconds I lost 4 litres of oil from a burst filter).

Also not all oil filters are not always full flow, those with bypasses or of poor construction will allow unfiltered oil to bypass it during times of high oil flow/pressure (high rpm), when cold with thick oil or with a clogged/faulty filter.

smiffywhu

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...d9e2f.mp4.html

Anyone else thinking the worst?

If so, I have a lovely 07 STI for sale 'great runner.....'

smiffywhu

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/smi...70bd0.mp4.html

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/smi...95d27.mp4.html

Carnut

Have you been running second hand parts before remap or with no remap?

smiffywhu

Hi Chris, neither matey

urban

iTrader: (1)

Have you had a 'grown up' inspect it yet?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

The second link is a traditional [?] big end failure sound Loud clicking is a Subaru 'feature '

The 07 car noise is general clatter and seems to sound like the busted ring land noise.

Can be fixed for circa £2300.00 + VAT here and then will be stronger and much more reliable. Finish it off with a proper quality remap, by a reputable mapper, and it'll stay fixed.

David APi

01926 614333

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Dave, is the 'EJ clatter' (on a non-knackered engine) predominantly the noise of the injectors ticking away?

Or is it an amalgam of those plus timing gear, etc.?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Difficult to tell John, the sound file is quite distorted and a listen to the real thing would be more use. It sounds to me like the busted ring land 'chatter', admittedly quite a loud one, but as a good educated guess that's my 5 p worth.

David

FlipC

Interesting.
I don't come over to this side that often so I am just now catching this thread and I find it interesting.

Of course I havent read ALL 53 pages.
But did glance the ring land failure pics. We (USA) have ****y gas and many of the 20Ks here are dead from it. Seemingly the 20K ECUs dont pull timing like the 20G units do.

But that aside I assume that these are under warranty so the dealer is changing the oil?
Reason I ask is that since 2007-2011 all car dealers in the US use a 0 weight oil on new cars. ALL manufacturer's are having high ring land failure due to this. Even Subaru.

thenewgalaxy

I've always been recommended to use 5w40 in all of my cars, though I think I remember a dealer telling me that 2.0 cars typically used 5w30.

Seahound007

I was recently recommended to put 0w 40 Castrol edge in my 2.5WRX sti.
What would be the difference with 5w 40?
To be honest I am a bit confused when it comes to oil & would welcome any advice.

Don Clark

0w40 is a no no - minimum of 5w **

thenewgalaxy

Surely using such a thin oil would work it's way into bits of the engine it shouldn't be more quickly?

And get into normal bits at a higher rate e.g. causing bearings to spin?

Don Clark

You just need to look in your owners manual for guidance

Seahound007

We have still had a lot of engine failures with drivers following Subaru instructions.

smiffywhu

The grown up said that knocking was the crankshaft due to low oil,since topping it up I haven't heard a squeak,so it's either only a matter of time until she goes pop or I've been a very lucky boy.I will certainly report back on her if/when she does

Jessy08

Been looking for a new car for the past few weeks. Finally picked the 330s and now just read this thread.

So disheartened but I'm out. Not worth the worry, guess I will never own a Scooby

Tidgy

there not all doomed to failure dude

Jessy08

It would always be hanging over my head though? How likley is it to happen?

I mean a turbo failure or something of the same price to fix I could live with but engine going pop? O.o

LuckyWelshchap

Reading the thread about the one that's done TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY THOUSAND MILES in EIGHT YEARS would redress the balance Jessy. (Welcome aboard btw).

You will have seen the general advice - buy one below your budget just in case. If it goes pop you have the money, and a car that's then worth more than you paid. If it doesn't then slam it all on Kingston Hill to win the St Leger and trade up to a 22B.

Jessy08

Is is possible to buy a 330s for less than 13,000?

Carnut

Just had a quick look on autotrader and found a few sti's with forged engines in no time. There are some that have had the bhp up to over 330 so you would have the peace of mind and more power. Or option number 2 is buy a hawkeye and get that forged so you will have the peace of mind and have the opportunity to be the one to run the engine in.

IMO its worth spending some money to get the car you want after all what eles can you get, a bmw or audi. I dont know how much you have looked in to it but with a few simple mods and a map these cars can compete with the likes of rs4 and m3's.

salsa-king

Don't panic Mr Mannering.

Not all have issues. it comes down to wrong Fuel, who you drive and look after your car and if any mods have been added without being re mapped etc.