Got another project :D NON IMPREZA.
04 July 2014, 07:43 PM
#121
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No not ex forces fella spent my early working years in a garage where everybody had or was building old landys of all types we used them for recovery and towing great fun on weekends 4x4 that goes anywhere awesome machines thought I told you at japfest that I like old landrovers
Good project be good to see it all restored
Good project be good to see it all restored
Whats holding me back now is available funds lol, so will have to get a few overtime shifts in so I can get some more bits. As my Scooby is having a hissy fit atm to, so that needs a bit of tlc.
11 July 2014, 03:49 AM
#125
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Starting to look a bit better.
Also my fuel tank decided it wants to be a sieve instead, and when welding up the said holes, more silver solder was melting so spreading the leak. Decided enough was enough and bought a new petrol tank, seems a bit thin and lightweight, but it doesn't leak. It is currently at my mates having the fuel pump mounting ring removed from my old tank, and welded onto my new one
Also my fuel tank decided it wants to be a sieve instead, and when welding up the said holes, more silver solder was melting so spreading the leak. Decided enough was enough and bought a new petrol tank, seems a bit thin and lightweight, but it doesn't leak. It is currently at my mates having the fuel pump mounting ring removed from my old tank, and welded onto my new one
Last edited by Jimbob; 11 July 2014 at 03:51 AM.
25 July 2014, 11:30 PM
#126
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nice series III. done an awesome job of the dash, im going to have to do mine sometime in the near future.
shes ex MOD with a disco 200tdi and outrageously whiney overdrive that i put in about a month ago
noisy uncomfy slow and cold but i cant get enough of it for some unknown reason, the joys of landy ownership
shes ex MOD with a disco 200tdi and outrageously whiney overdrive that i put in about a month ago
noisy uncomfy slow and cold but i cant get enough of it for some unknown reason, the joys of landy ownership
Last edited by J.e30; 25 July 2014 at 11:32 PM.
26 July 2014, 07:55 PM
#127
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nice series III. done an awesome job of the dash, im going to have to do mine sometime in the near future.
shes ex MOD with a disco 200tdi and outrageously whiney overdrive that i put in about a month ago
noisy uncomfy slow and cold but i cant get enough of it for some unknown reason, the joys of landy ownership
shes ex MOD with a disco 200tdi and outrageously whiney overdrive that i put in about a month ago
noisy uncomfy slow and cold but i cant get enough of it for some unknown reason, the joys of landy ownership
, Cant wait to get mine sorted.
26 July 2014, 09:23 PM
#128
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I am now in the process of running new gearbox and transfer box breathers. As they are known for becoming blocked easily and then dumping the fluid out of the bottom through any seal (most commonly the Land Rover patented external lubrication system, that is the transfer gear cover)
These are pics off my spare/donor box.
These are the fittings I have bought.
Two of these, with some lock nuts.
One of these.
And 30m coil of red pipe, enough to re pipe the axle breathers and run up nice and high.
Taken the cover off my spare box and lost one ball bearing inside the box lol.
But now I know how to remove the cover, its pretty easy.
This luckily for me popped out as I was tapping out dirt from inside with a screw driver, so MUCH easier to tap a hole into, and then refit with some sealant
*
*
Old box looks good, surprisingly.
I have done the first breather, took the disk and cut a slot in the side, drilled a hole for the breather and put a screw and washer in the original hole. The breather was fitted and the lock nut is nice and tight with some thread lock, the nuts are super tight and the fitting has a rubber seal.*
Then I thought that I would bend up the flap I just created, so IF the lock nut comes off, it cannot go anywhere, so I can remove the disk and refit the lock nut again.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Should do the job
Just need to find my tap for the thread to fit it to the transfer box.
The company on Ebay mixed up my order so sent the wrong breathers (plain silver ones next to the Y connector), so I emailed them and they sent me the 90 degree ones gratis, including 2 extra, and they allowed me to keep the wrong fittings.
I bought some cobalt drill bits so I could drill through the massively thick transfer plate (my drill bits are old and carp), so thats drilled and tapped.*
And now looks like this.
*
*
So now ready to glue, then remove the one on the Landy now, and replace with these. These are the parts on the gearbox above, no cleaned up well.
These are pics off my spare/donor box.
These are the fittings I have bought.
Two of these, with some lock nuts.
One of these.
And 30m coil of red pipe, enough to re pipe the axle breathers and run up nice and high.
Taken the cover off my spare box and lost one ball bearing inside the box lol.
But now I know how to remove the cover, its pretty easy.
This luckily for me popped out as I was tapping out dirt from inside with a screw driver, so MUCH easier to tap a hole into, and then refit with some sealant
*
*
Old box looks good, surprisingly.
I have done the first breather, took the disk and cut a slot in the side, drilled a hole for the breather and put a screw and washer in the original hole. The breather was fitted and the lock nut is nice and tight with some thread lock, the nuts are super tight and the fitting has a rubber seal.*
Then I thought that I would bend up the flap I just created, so IF the lock nut comes off, it cannot go anywhere, so I can remove the disk and refit the lock nut again.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Should do the job
Just need to find my tap for the thread to fit it to the transfer box.
The company on Ebay mixed up my order so sent the wrong breathers (plain silver ones next to the Y connector), so I emailed them and they sent me the 90 degree ones gratis, including 2 extra, and they allowed me to keep the wrong fittings.
I bought some cobalt drill bits so I could drill through the massively thick transfer plate (my drill bits are old and carp), so thats drilled and tapped.*
And now looks like this.
*
*
So now ready to glue, then remove the one on the Landy now, and replace with these. These are the parts on the gearbox above, no cleaned up well.
Last edited by Jimbob; 27 July 2014 at 02:48 AM.
29 August 2014, 02:21 AM
#129
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Done some more work.
Fuel pipes all plumbed up.
Cat Flap rear tailgate bought and fitted, already had the lower tailgate.
Changed over from points and condenser (tbh the spark was terrible when tested), to an Accuspark contactless setup. Not run the engine yet, so getting a standard set of points and condenser for standby in case everything goes Pete Tong.
Before.
After.
New Coil.
Now this is how the dizzy now looks, BUT in what order do the leads go??
Found these to help.
Bit of photoshop later.
Now having done this work I decided to try my luck and get her running, now I had some issues, in that the engine turned over but did not fire, not an attempt. So l knew that there was either a spark problem, as I could smell fuel (so I thought). So did a bit of reading up about finding TDC as its not as easy as looking at a cam marking as I have one cam on the V8 running pushrods, so nothing to see
I have found the problem though lol
Well what I have now done is remove the passenger side rocker, then rotated the crank to TDC, checked the push rods did nothing, and they moved, so rotated again and did the same, this time they stayed solid (compression stroke on the 4 stroke cycle). Then lined the crank up to the pulley so it was dead on TDC.
Then I removed the dizzy and well pictures are worth a thousand words
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That would DEFINITELY do it lol.
So what I have done is musical chairs with the dizzy, and moved each one lead, then I attempted to start again. BUT there was no progress
The fuel filter had a funny issue in that as soon as the pump was turned off, the filter would drain. This raised suspicions, in that I took the filter pipe off and was sprayed with fuel, it should not be under pressure. So on went the compressor and fitted a metal tube to the tyre inflator and into the fuel pipes to the carbs, quick blast and could hear crud come out then the floats inside fluttering, so that made me happy.
Then started again and then this happened.
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_007.mp4
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_008.mp4
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_011.mp4
Not bad for an engine that has not been run in over 8 years
Now I still need to do a few things.
1. Sort the static timing, get my timing light out again and set the timing correctly.
2. Fit a return spring to the choke, as at the moment the choke has nothing so won't go fully off.
Fuel pipes all plumbed up.
Cat Flap rear tailgate bought and fitted, already had the lower tailgate.
Changed over from points and condenser (tbh the spark was terrible when tested), to an Accuspark contactless setup. Not run the engine yet, so getting a standard set of points and condenser for standby in case everything goes Pete Tong.
Before.
After.
New Coil.
Now this is how the dizzy now looks, BUT in what order do the leads go??
Found these to help.
Bit of photoshop later.
Now having done this work I decided to try my luck and get her running, now I had some issues, in that the engine turned over but did not fire, not an attempt. So l knew that there was either a spark problem, as I could smell fuel (so I thought). So did a bit of reading up about finding TDC as its not as easy as looking at a cam marking as I have one cam on the V8 running pushrods, so nothing to see
I have found the problem though lol
Well what I have now done is remove the passenger side rocker, then rotated the crank to TDC, checked the push rods did nothing, and they moved, so rotated again and did the same, this time they stayed solid (compression stroke on the 4 stroke cycle). Then lined the crank up to the pulley so it was dead on TDC.
Then I removed the dizzy and well pictures are worth a thousand words
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
That would DEFINITELY do it lol.
So what I have done is musical chairs with the dizzy, and moved each one lead, then I attempted to start again. BUT there was no progress
The fuel filter had a funny issue in that as soon as the pump was turned off, the filter would drain. This raised suspicions, in that I took the filter pipe off and was sprayed with fuel, it should not be under pressure. So on went the compressor and fitted a metal tube to the tyre inflator and into the fuel pipes to the carbs, quick blast and could hear crud come out then the floats inside fluttering, so that made me happy.
Then started again and then this happened.
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_007.mp4
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_008.mp4
http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140828_011.mp4
Not bad for an engine that has not been run in over 8 years
Now I still need to do a few things.
1. Sort the static timing, get my timing light out again and set the timing correctly.
2. Fit a return spring to the choke, as at the moment the choke has nothing so won't go fully off.
Last edited by Jimbob; 29 August 2014 at 06:18 PM.
29 August 2014, 05:58 PM
#131
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http://vid159.photobucket.com/albums...140829_001.mp4
I have sorted the idle, BUT the engine needs setting up properly, carbs cleaned out and balanced, then engine given a tune up.
Anyone know of somewhere nearish to Swansea area that would do it? Will travel 30 miles or so for it to be done properly.
Added links to the videos, as the small pics above should be links to videos
Last edited by Jimbob; 29 August 2014 at 06:20 PM.
25 November 2014, 01:47 AM
#134
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I have fitted the gearbox and transfer box.
The cover I had that I painted, would fit but the selector forks would not move, so had to refit the standard cover.
And seeing as I had no sealant I had to use Hylomar lol, everything seems to be fixed with Hylomar!!
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Well this kind of make my decision a LOT easier. I wanted the Carbs rebuilt, and then once rebuilt balanced. Now I was budgeting for the expense of the two processes, but having read their restoration process here*http://sucarb.co.uk/restoration-and-rebuild*they will balance and set up idle etc etc so should be a fit and forget setup. Which makes my life a LOT easier. Also they will take the original inlet manifold too, and clean and polish it up for £50. So I can imagine the look on my face as I open up to see a pair of perfectly clean and polished carbs, on a cleaned and polished inlet manifold. Like this
*
Pic taken from the Burlen website.
I will get the Haynes manual, and try and blag a copy of Burlens, as they will always be handy for future reference and maintenance.
Well got the carbs off, just waiting on a reply from Burlen and I'll drop them down a week Monday.
*
*
*
*
*
List is now, new 3.9 cam, 16 new push rods and a set of 16 decent followers, new pulley and chain. New water pump gasket, and thermostat. With new valley gasket ready for putting back on.
Looking good under there.
*
Looking at them quickly, it looks like a newish cam and lifters, so will just adjust the rockers, and see if that shuts up the rattle I have top end.
*
*
*
*
*
Is there a way of identifying the cam without removing it??
Also bought this to paint up ready for my freshly restored carbs Got 4 months to do it.
*
*
*
The cover I had that I painted, would fit but the selector forks would not move, so had to refit the standard cover.
And seeing as I had no sealant I had to use Hylomar lol, everything seems to be fixed with Hylomar!!
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Well this kind of make my decision a LOT easier. I wanted the Carbs rebuilt, and then once rebuilt balanced. Now I was budgeting for the expense of the two processes, but having read their restoration process here*http://sucarb.co.uk/restoration-and-rebuild*they will balance and set up idle etc etc so should be a fit and forget setup. Which makes my life a LOT easier. Also they will take the original inlet manifold too, and clean and polish it up for £50. So I can imagine the look on my face as I open up to see a pair of perfectly clean and polished carbs, on a cleaned and polished inlet manifold. Like this
*
Pic taken from the Burlen website.
I will get the Haynes manual, and try and blag a copy of Burlens, as they will always be handy for future reference and maintenance.
Well got the carbs off, just waiting on a reply from Burlen and I'll drop them down a week Monday.
*
*
*
*
*
List is now, new 3.9 cam, 16 new push rods and a set of 16 decent followers, new pulley and chain. New water pump gasket, and thermostat. With new valley gasket ready for putting back on.
Looking good under there.
*
Looking at them quickly, it looks like a newish cam and lifters, so will just adjust the rockers, and see if that shuts up the rattle I have top end.
*
*
*
*
*
Is there a way of identifying the cam without removing it??
Also bought this to paint up ready for my freshly restored carbs
Got 4 months to do it.*
*
*
14 April 2015, 03:03 AM
#135
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Decided to go for a black inlet manifold, so the carbs can gleam against them.
I'm a happy bunny
Got a little setting up to do, but should be able to get them setup and the rest of the Landy, then get her up to get the engine setup sweetly.
I honestly cannot believe the difference in these carbs, I was debating the cost being a bit much, but holding them in my hand makes me realise this was a no brainer and I was glad I did it.
These are my carbs all renewed and restored by SU (Burlen Fuel Systems in Salisbury)
Some other pics from inside Burlen.
And some of my Scooby 350miles of fun along country lanes, and boring M4.
Front plate needs putting back on, a hole on the chalk lane and the backing double sided tape came off whoops
I'm a happy bunny Got a little setting up to do, but should be able to get them setup and the rest of the Landy, then get her up to get the engine setup sweetly.
I honestly cannot believe the difference in these carbs, I was debating the cost being a bit much, but holding them in my hand makes me realise this was a no brainer and I was glad I did it.
These are my carbs all renewed and restored by SU (Burlen Fuel Systems in Salisbury)
Some other pics from inside Burlen.
And some of my Scooby 350miles of fun along country lanes, and boring M4.
Front plate needs putting back on, a hole on the chalk lane and the backing double sided tape came off whoops
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