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Old 27 August 2005, 00:23   #1
Tiggs
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Default How much for a builder to block up an internal door?

I have a door from living room to dining room that just robs both rooms of usefull wall space...both rooms have other doors in them.

So i want it filled in.....how much should i pay and will a pro job leave a vauge door outline!

T

ps- looking at it is it as simple as ripping off the door frame trim - making a wood frame in the door - slap up some plasterboard and get a plaster bloke to finish off....would that save a lot of ?
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Old 27 August 2005, 00:33   #2
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depends where you are tbh,
Hes going to be there a day i bet with travelling, so lets say 8 hours at 25 an hour? Materials, plasterboard, paint etc 30? max
If your "darn sarf" exoect to double it. IMHO!
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Old 27 August 2005, 00:48   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by +Doc+
depends where you are tbh,
Hes going to be there a day i bet with travelling, so lets say 8 hours at 25 an hour? Materials, plasterboard, paint etc 30? max
If your "darn sarf" exoect to double it. IMHO!

so i should get the lot done for 300ish.......suppose it may be best to plasterboard it up and just pay for a plasterer?
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Old 27 August 2005, 01:11   #4
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If you are reasonably competent you will be able to fix a studded wall. Youd be wise to speak to the plasterer before hand though; to see how far short you need to dress the plasterboard. The studs will cost about 1:70 each at Wickes and youll need six (to make the noggins too). Add a couple of plasterboards, some galv nails and a little patience and youll be away.


Simon
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Old 27 August 2005, 01:25   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GC8
If you are reasonably competent you will be able to fix a studded wall. Youd be wise to speak to the plasterer before hand though; to see how far short you need to dress the plasterboard. The studs will cost about 1:70 each at Wickes and youll need six (to make the noggins too). Add a couple of plasterboards, some galv nails and a little patience and youll be away.


Simon

and cost of plasterer to leave it done for me to paint?

(and will even the best job leave a faint line as to where it used to be?)
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Old 27 August 2005, 09:40   #6
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If it's an internal wall in the living/dining area, why not save cash and turn the 'gap' into a feature like a large wine rack or suchlike?
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Old 27 August 2005, 10:03   #7
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Did the same thing Tiggs - put up a plasterboard partition instead of blocking it up. Didn't have the issues with seeing the outline, (but TBH, would have) as I had both walls re-plastered (they needed it anyway due to a house rewire )

Depends if you want to do it yourself, as the materials are about 30. This is what I did, and paid for a plasterer to do the rest (deffo a black art if you haven't tried it before!! ) But the actual "filling-in" is a piece of cake. SO easy to do. Will save you a packet too.

The plasterer cost is obviously dependant on your location - around me, about 100. Any pro worth his salts, won't leave a visible line.

Dan
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Old 27 August 2005, 10:10   #8
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how thick is the wall?
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Old 27 August 2005, 10:19   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Sengravy
how thick is the wall?

normal internal wall....brick so about as thick as a brick! 6 inches?


cant be a wine rack as a fish tank is going in front of it!
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Old 27 August 2005, 10:55   #10
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Your best to plasterboard it yourself, Make sure you put plenty of noggins in (wood to nail to) A plasterer will be 100 max, If you were close to me (York) Id skim it for 60 its only 2 hours work , And most of that is drying time, cheers Alan.
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Old 28 August 2005, 00:06   #11
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ay you short of work al
looks like your costs are coming down
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Old 28 August 2005, 07:33   #12
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No never been short of work, But if doorway all preped and boarded ect Its a bucket of skimming Put it on watch it dry trowel over go home 60 , Im ok with that, cheers Alan.
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Old 29 August 2005, 16:57   #13
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ok...so i rip off the door frame parts that protrude beyond the wall level...........build a wooden frame in the door.....screw plaster board (how thick?) to the frame leaving it a bit below the level of the wall.......and thats it?

once plaster is done i paint and fit new skirting board...simple as that?
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Old 29 August 2005, 17:40   #14
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Best take all frame out , then put woodwork back, plasterboard is 1/4 " or 1/2" , and yes its as simple as that !! cheers, Alan.
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Old 29 August 2005, 18:44   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanbell
Best take all frame out , then put woodwork back, plasterboard is 1/4 " or 1/2" , and yes its as simple as that !! cheers, Alan.

you mean put my woodwork back? the frame gets chcuked?

which plasterboard or doesnt it matter?
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Old 29 August 2005, 19:32   #16
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yes remove the frame then build stud wall , then plasterboard with the board to suit the thickness needed, >> or some thing like that ,
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Old 29 August 2005, 20:05   #17
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what he said piece of cake!!!

Dan
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Old 10 September 2005, 06:29   #18
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I did this very job in my flat. As described above, although someone told me to put the plasterboard on a certain way round (light side out, grey side down) as it is better to plaster it this way. I also filled the cavities with some glass fibre insulation stuff.

Plasterer did it and a couple of other bits for 80.
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Old 10 September 2005, 06:29
 
 
 
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block, blocking, blocks, board, cost, diy, door, doorway, double, internal, it, plaster, plasterboard, plastering, thickness


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