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Old 19 June 2009, 16:51   #1 (permalink)
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Default Draining a radiator for removal?

We have to temporarily remove two large rads from the living room, in order to remove wallpaper from behind them.

At the outset, it looked easy: tighten down, (close), valves at both ends, slacken off one of the valve-feeds to the rad and place bowl under it.

So that's what I did. But after I had drained a gallon of water off, it's still coming out under pressure, and opening the bleed valve produces a stream of water, not air going in.

Therefore, one of the valves isn't closed. My bet is it's the Danfoss TRV on one end. IS there a way to isloate this valve? To turn it off completely? The other end is a lockshield, and is screwed down tight. THAT was the end I disturbed.

TIA
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Old 19 June 2009, 17:02   #2 (permalink)
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If the valve is goosed then you may have to drain off the complete system.
Most CH systems have a valve that a hose pipe can be connected to to drain the system. Turn off the boiler and water supply first and then connect a pipe to this valve and put it outside or doewn a drain [below floor level] and this should drain the sytem.
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Old 19 June 2009, 17:24   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, that's what I was HOPING to avoid.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, I HATE Danfoss valves, these are the only two left in my system out of 8, all the others were removed due to malfunction, and replaced with half-their-price Wickes ones which NEVER give a moment's trouble.
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Old 19 June 2009, 17:42   #4 (permalink)
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Will the valve head screw off completely?

There should be a small brass valve underneath the valve head that may need lubing with WD40 or similar to free it. It has worked for me in the past.
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Old 19 June 2009, 17:47   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob r View Post
Will the valve head screw off completely?

There should be a small brass valve underneath the valve head that may need lubing with WD40 or similar to free it. It has worked for me in the past.
Oh yes, I can get the valve-head off, (it's held on with a sort of Jubilee clip), and there IS a brass body under it. I just wondered if anyone knew why turning the Danfoss valve off completely wasn't isolating the rad?

And is there owt I can do about it?
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Old 19 June 2009, 18:48   #6 (permalink)
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Freeze the beggar !

Sorry !

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Old 19 June 2009, 20:10   #7 (permalink)
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Most if not all TRVs come with a decorators cap which you screw on in place of the TRV head,because even shutting the TRV down completely does not shut the valve off 100 %
and will still let water by
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Old 19 June 2009, 20:58   #8 (permalink)
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I seem to remember those, but can't seem to find any of them
Would I still be able to get hold of one?
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Old 21 June 2009, 21:47   #9 (permalink)
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Default UPDATE:

Well, I drained it down, finally removed the last of the dreaded Danfoss valves, and repaired a leak I'd found.

WHY are Danfoss valves a different style, so they have to be COMPLETELY re-plumbed, no screwing a new valve into THOSE lads: tail has to come out of rad, (different size and different threads on the nut), plus the nut and olive off the inlet pipe, and a new inlet pipe plumbed in, (the danfoss ones are an INTERNAL thread ;rolleyes.

Took me over two hours to refill it and bleed all the rads..........but I DID leave one lockshield valve undone and it p*ssed water all over the lounge carpet. Wife is NOT a happy bunny
Oh well, both lounge rads flushed
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