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Old 13 February 2011, 12:21   #1
^OPM^
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Default Is an expansion gap needed on engineered wood floor?

I know when laying laminate floor or engineered wood floor they say leave an expansion gap-but read one site where a floor laying expert said it was all a con to sell expensive beading.
Is this true any experts on here?

reason i ask is i would like some nice engineered or even decent laminate flooring like i had in old house ( think i had something like click lock 9000 from allied carpets) and i want it in my hallway-now being a hallway it is only about 1 m in parts but obviously long, be so much faster and easier to lay if i could get away without taking skirting boards of and associated problems that brings,now if i could just allow say 1mm cutting allowance on sides i could fill that with a bead of silicone or similar but leave an expansion gap at either end and hide that under the joining pieces under door.

Is this ok ? or does it depend on type of floor i put down?
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Old 13 February 2011, 14:02   #2
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We always leave an expansion, ideally hidden under the skirting, either by putting the skirt on after or by under cutting the skirting.
I have seen a cheap laminate fitted tight to a room, the room was empty, and the floor ballooned up in the middle. once trimmed to allow a 10mm expansion it returned to flat. so yes I would always allow an expansion.
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Old 13 February 2011, 14:12   #3
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what about the expensive stuff or engineered wood?


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We always leave an expansion, ideally hidden under the skirting, either by putting the skirt on after or by under cutting the skirting.
I have seen a cheap laminate fitted tight to a room, the room was empty, and the floor ballooned up in the middle. once trimmed to allow a 10mm expansion it returned to flat. so yes I would always allow an expansion.
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Old 13 February 2011, 14:48   #4
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if its made of wood which it will be always leave a gap cause it will move with any temp changes as above we always go under skirting always looks so much nice
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Old 13 February 2011, 14:59   #5
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yeah expansion gap on any floor be it wood or cheap laminate, can either remove skirting or use strips of beading to hide it!
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Old 13 February 2011, 15:12   #6
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I know it looks better under skirting but such a pain to remove , then in removing chances are bits of plaster will come off etc, but beading looks naff tho
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Old 13 February 2011, 15:34   #7
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I know it looks better under skirting but such a pain to remove , then in removing chances are bits of plaster will come off etc, but beading looks naff tho
Beading will never look as good, but if you're not happy to remove the skirt, it is prob your option.
Undercutting needs specialist tooling, may be possible to hire? either a Karlton skirt/door trimmer or an oscillating saw such as a Fein Multimaster.
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Old 13 February 2011, 15:46   #8
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guess i will have to do a test piece of skirting board and see how easy it comes off.

Im guessing as my house is 8 years old that it only is stuck on with no nails or similar and wont be stuck on using much-altho top is sealed but that could have been done using builders caulk.

Fingers crossed no plaster comes of with it
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Old 13 February 2011, 16:22   #9
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guess i will have to do a test piece of skirting board and see how easy it comes off.

Im guessing as my house is 8 years old that it only is stuck on with no nails or similar and wont be stuck on using much-altho top is sealed but that could have been done using builders caulk.

Fingers crossed no plaster comes of with it
in that case it will come off easily as will be fixed by "gripfill" and paslodes
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Old 13 February 2011, 16:34   #10
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pas...what...explain please?


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in that case it will come off easily as will be fixed by "gripfill" and paslodes
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Old 13 February 2011, 16:53   #11
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http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83658/...d-Brad-Nailer:)
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:28   #12
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cant see no nail holes in skirting tho
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:50   #13
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thats what painters are for though usually they are rough ***** and you might of had a good un
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:52   #14
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i painted skirting boards tho and didn't see no holes on any of them in any room
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:53   #15
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plus i understand why a builder would just use a nail gun for speed to nail skirting on-but would they also run round top with builders caulk?
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:55   #16
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paslodes leave a very small hole, either thet or skirting was just "gripfilled"
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Old 13 February 2011, 17:56   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ^OPM^ View Post
plus i understand why a builder would just use a nail gun for speed to nail skirting on-but would they also run round top with builders caulk?
most i know do
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Old 13 February 2011, 18:00   #18
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FFF just got on knees and you are possibly right-i can see very tiny nail holes-so tiny that paint almost fills them-anyway-will skirting just pull of easy then? with minimal effort and no plaster coming off-will it just have gripfill on top edge to smooth things off? so there is no gaps at top
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Old 13 February 2011, 18:08   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ^OPM^ View Post
FFF just got on knees and you are possibly right-i can see very tiny nail holes-so tiny that paint almost fills them-anyway-will skirting just pull of easy then? with minimal effort and no plaster coming off-will it just have gripfill on top edge to smooth things off? so there is no gaps at top
grip fill should not be on top edge, that will be caulking (painters mate) just run a "stanley knife" on top of skirting and it "should" come away from wall without plaster coming off
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Old 13 February 2011, 18:12   #20
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ok will try that when i come to get one off-many thanks

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grip fill should not be on top edge, that will be caulking (painters mate) just run a "stanley knife" on top of skirting and it "should" come away from wall without plaster coming off
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Old 13 February 2011, 18:20   #21
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Quote:
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ok will try that when i come to get one off-many thanks
no problem, good luck
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Old 13 February 2011, 18:20
 
 
 
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big, boards, engineered, expansion, fill, floor, flooring, gap, hardwood, installing, silicone, skirting, undercuting, wood, wooden


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