gearbox codes
#1
gearbox codes
hi does any part of the gearbox code mean anything about it? my code is 8x ty752vn6aa i am looking to change it as it died do i have to match all the code or will part of it do? thanks
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#2
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That code is the actual gearbox code.. This is the info you require when sourcing a new box from suppliers.
Ideally you want to match the exact code. But if not possible, you must try and find a gearbox with identical gear ratios, otherwise you will have to replace the rear differentials too..
Try this for more info>>> The SPDA - Transmission Chart
Or even Call david at Welcome to the API website for more info
Ideally you want to match the exact code. But if not possible, you must try and find a gearbox with identical gear ratios, otherwise you will have to replace the rear differentials too..
Try this for more info>>> The SPDA - Transmission Chart
Or even Call david at Welcome to the API website for more info
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ANY TY 752 / TY 754 VN box will fit that car.
754 is stronger than 752 by some way. Slight grief around the starter bolts area to get a 754 in place of a 752 but nothing serious.
David APi
754 is stronger than 752 by some way. Slight grief around the starter bolts area to get a 754 in place of a 752 but nothing serious.
David APi
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I'm Having the exact same problem with my 95 wrx import now so as long as I source a good condition box with either of those codes containing vn I should be able to drop it straight in as a replacement my current box that has given up is TY752VN6AA which I think is out of a 98 uk 2000 should I be looking to get the same box or is there a similar box that is maybe slightly better/stronger any help would be greatly appreciated with this one as I would like the get the best box poss first time around
Thanks in advance to anyone who offers ideas/advise
Thanks in advance to anyone who offers ideas/advise
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I'm Having the exact same problem with my 95 wrx import now so as long as I source a good condition box with either of those codes containing vn I should be able to drop it straight in as a replacement my current box that has given up is TY752VN6AA which I think is out of a 98 uk 2000 should I be looking to get the same box or is there a similar box that is maybe slightly better/stronger any help would be greatly appreciated with this one as I would like the get the best box poss first time around
Thanks in advance to anyone who offers ideas/advise
Thanks in advance to anyone who offers ideas/advise
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What even though the box that has just gone bang is from a 98 uk 2000 it worked fine before so do I assume that my rear diff has been changed to correspond with the gearbox is there anyway of checking mate appreciate the help
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I know mate that is what I was told until I just checked the codes so you would assume the rear diff has been changed too . Are there any identifying marks to tell.
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Ref post 7. You cannot put a VN series box in an import WRX without changing the rear diff, they are the wrong ratio. So to clarify; IN A UK CAR; any VN box will go in place of any other VN box.
BUT if this is a VN box in an import car, you will need to check that the rear diff is the matching 3.545 UK ratio. If you put in a VN box where a VB box has come from, you will go 30 miles with a big vibration, then there will be a bang, the vibration will stop as the centre diff has just broken, and you will have a nice, silent, vibration free, 2wd transmission........ If you haven't changed to the matching rear diff.
David APi
BUT if this is a VN box in an import car, you will need to check that the rear diff is the matching 3.545 UK ratio. If you put in a VN box where a VB box has come from, you will go 30 miles with a big vibration, then there will be a bang, the vibration will stop as the centre diff has just broken, and you will have a nice, silent, vibration free, 2wd transmission........ If you haven't changed to the matching rear diff.
David APi
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If the silver sticker that I removed from the top of the box had VN in the number then I should be safe to assume the rear diff has been changed to match otherwise I wouldn't have been able to drive the car perfectly ok for the last 12 months is that right David
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There is nothing to suggest that because the gearbox has been changed that anyone knew or thought to change the diff.
To be safe you need to take out the diff filler and drain plugs , shine a light in and count the crown wheel teeth. That will tell us what is fitted.
Once you know for sure what the rear diff is in there you can move on.
If the centre diff went, the car would drive perfectly with no suggestion of anything wrong at all. It would just be 2WD.
Ratios are :
9 - 40 = 4.444 [ 40 divided by 9 ] JDM STi
9 - 37 = 4.111 JDM WRX
10 - 39 = 3.900 JDM RA versions
11 - 39 = 3.545 Standard UK Now that is where the problem gets worse, as you
can see 3.9 and 3.545 use a 39 tooth crown wheel.
So you need to try to look in far enough to count the pinion teeth. It would NOT be unreasonable to assume if you have 39, that it is a 3.545 as that it what it ought to be.
BUT, to be sure and save a busted centre diff you need to check.
Good Luck David APi
Last edited by APIDavid; 05 August 2009 at 11:33 AM.
#13
Gearbox troubles
Hi Guys
Apologies if I repeat anything that has been posted already...
I recenlty bought a wrx import which is meant to be on a 94 and meant to have been so well looked after that I wouldn't need to touch it for another 2 years. Yeah right.
Anyways, to cut a long story.... I sourced a replacement gearbox with the same box number as my car.... TY752VB3AA...
When eventually the box arrived, it had a slightly different casing to my old one. My one had the square plate across the rear, the secondhand one didn't.
Got it all built back up with a new clutch and skimmed flywheel. Gears were very crunchy to find and reverse needs a fair bit of effort. After moving the car for no more than maybe 2 or 3 car lengths there is a loud clunk, similar to a driveshaft hitting off an exhaust. The car also feels like it is dragging as if it has no neutral.... The more we moved it back and forth it appears to be locking up a wheel...
Any advice on my plight... I hope I have described this well enough as I am not a mechanic by any stretch....
I am also very worried that I'm not gonna get a box easily now too or hopefully I've just had back luck with this one.
Help
Apologies if I repeat anything that has been posted already...
I recenlty bought a wrx import which is meant to be on a 94 and meant to have been so well looked after that I wouldn't need to touch it for another 2 years. Yeah right.
Anyways, to cut a long story.... I sourced a replacement gearbox with the same box number as my car.... TY752VB3AA...
When eventually the box arrived, it had a slightly different casing to my old one. My one had the square plate across the rear, the secondhand one didn't.
Got it all built back up with a new clutch and skimmed flywheel. Gears were very crunchy to find and reverse needs a fair bit of effort. After moving the car for no more than maybe 2 or 3 car lengths there is a loud clunk, similar to a driveshaft hitting off an exhaust. The car also feels like it is dragging as if it has no neutral.... The more we moved it back and forth it appears to be locking up a wheel...
Any advice on my plight... I hope I have described this well enough as I am not a mechanic by any stretch....
I am also very worried that I'm not gonna get a box easily now too or hopefully I've just had back luck with this one.
Help
#14
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Hi Guys
Apologies if I repeat anything that has been posted already...
I recenlty bought a wrx import which is meant to be on a 94 and meant to have been so well looked after that I wouldn't need to touch it for another 2 years. Yeah right.
Anyways, to cut a long story.... I sourced a replacement gearbox with the same box number as my car.... TY752VB3AA...
When eventually the box arrived, it had a slightly different casing to my old one. My one had the square plate across the rear, the secondhand one didn't.
Got it all built back up with a new clutch and skimmed flywheel. Gears were very crunchy to find and reverse needs a fair bit of effort. After moving the car for no more than maybe 2 or 3 car lengths there is a loud clunk, similar to a driveshaft hitting off an exhaust. The car also feels like it is dragging as if it has no neutral.... The more we moved it back and forth it appears to be locking up a wheel...
Any advice on my plight... I hope I have described this well enough as I am not a mechanic by any stretch....
I am also very worried that I'm not gonna get a box easily now too or hopefully I've just had back luck with this one.
Help
Apologies if I repeat anything that has been posted already...
I recenlty bought a wrx import which is meant to be on a 94 and meant to have been so well looked after that I wouldn't need to touch it for another 2 years. Yeah right.
Anyways, to cut a long story.... I sourced a replacement gearbox with the same box number as my car.... TY752VB3AA...
When eventually the box arrived, it had a slightly different casing to my old one. My one had the square plate across the rear, the secondhand one didn't.
Got it all built back up with a new clutch and skimmed flywheel. Gears were very crunchy to find and reverse needs a fair bit of effort. After moving the car for no more than maybe 2 or 3 car lengths there is a loud clunk, similar to a driveshaft hitting off an exhaust. The car also feels like it is dragging as if it has no neutral.... The more we moved it back and forth it appears to be locking up a wheel...
Any advice on my plight... I hope I have described this well enough as I am not a mechanic by any stretch....
I am also very worried that I'm not gonna get a box easily now too or hopefully I've just had back luck with this one.
Help
BUT I expect that you have been sent a UK box with the wrong final drive ratio and the clunk was the centre diff breaking. Because it doesn't fit your car.
Now you have a problem 'cos the breaker [ or whoever ] sold you the box is unlikely to take it back broken - you'll need to make a lot of noise to do so.
OR you send it to someone like us and we'll create a box that does fit and is compatible with your car.
The simple test to see if I am right, is to take off the rear gearbox case exposing the drop gears that transfer drive proportionately front and rear.
Count the teeth on the gears:
30 : 30 is JDM type I.E. a VB box which is what you need.
30 : 33 is UK VN type box
Good Luck - call if I can help
David APi
Last edited by APIDavid; 06 August 2009 at 10:36 AM.
#15
#14
Thanks for the reply.... Good information. It appears to be a bit of a gearbox minefield with these things
The ebayer in question has said he'll give me back my money, but will just have to and see I guess.
I know it's difficult to quote these things without seeing, but appprox what would be a best and worst price for doing the boxes that you do?
Thanks again - much appreciated.
Thanks for the reply.... Good information. It appears to be a bit of a gearbox minefield with these things
The ebayer in question has said he'll give me back my money, but will just have to and see I guess.
I know it's difficult to quote these things without seeing, but appprox what would be a best and worst price for doing the boxes that you do?
Thanks again - much appreciated.
#16
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A full recon. unit for yours is £650.00 + VAT [ £747.50 inc ] exchange and comes with a 6 months 6000 miles parts cover warranty for noise or synchro failure.
We NEVER support a warranty for stripped gear teeth unless it happens with 100 miles on the road, of fitting. [ AND not 100 miles at Santa Pod.....]
It is a fixed price and we will rebuild yours as the starting option.
Carriage depends upon postcode OR fitting is £220.00 + VAT [ £253.00 inc ]
David
We NEVER support a warranty for stripped gear teeth unless it happens with 100 miles on the road, of fitting. [ AND not 100 miles at Santa Pod.....]
It is a fixed price and we will rebuild yours as the starting option.
Carriage depends upon postcode OR fitting is £220.00 + VAT [ £253.00 inc ]
David
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#14
Thanks for the reply.... Good information. It appears to be a bit of a gearbox minefield with these things
The ebayer in question has said he'll give me back my money, but will just have to and see I guess.
I know it's difficult to quote these things without seeing, but appprox what would be a best and worst price for doing the boxes that you do?
Thanks again - much appreciated.
Thanks for the reply.... Good information. It appears to be a bit of a gearbox minefield with these things
The ebayer in question has said he'll give me back my money, but will just have to and see I guess.
I know it's difficult to quote these things without seeing, but appprox what would be a best and worst price for doing the boxes that you do?
Thanks again - much appreciated.
Its not worth a rebuild, buy from a reputable breaker and get a low milage replacement. Far cheaper and they all have some sort of warrenty.
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David
#19
Sorry to jump in on the thread...
David - you mention that if the centre diff goes then the car would revert to driving like a normal 2WD car. Would you be likely to notice this at all in the way the car drives - ie would you get a significant amount of front wheel spin or anything like that due to the way the power is now put onto the road?
Tim
David - you mention that if the centre diff goes then the car would revert to driving like a normal 2WD car. Would you be likely to notice this at all in the way the car drives - ie would you get a significant amount of front wheel spin or anything like that due to the way the power is now put onto the road?
Tim
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No, very difficult to tell when the front is broken or disconnected if you prefer. Set the car up on a ramp and try to drive it and the fronts should not work at all or can be held from gently rotating by someone.
DO NOT try to hang on to a front wheel [ both ] if there is a chance that it may still work or you could end up injured.
David
DO NOT try to hang on to a front wheel [ both ] if there is a chance that it may still work or you could end up injured.
David
#21
Thanks for the reply David. Unfortunately its too late for the testing part as the gearbox has already gone pop and I cant select any gears at all! Luckily it appears to be stuck halfway between 2nd and neutral so it still rolls....
My question was based around the fact that the current gearbox is a TY752VN6AA, but is in a v2 STi which should have had a TY752VB4AA box in. I had assumed that everything had already been converted to take the 6AA but then I saw your post about the diff going and it not really being noticeable and started to worry as I dont know the full history of my car.
My question was based around the fact that the current gearbox is a TY752VN6AA, but is in a v2 STi which should have had a TY752VB4AA box in. I had assumed that everything had already been converted to take the 6AA but then I saw your post about the diff going and it not really being noticeable and started to worry as I dont know the full history of my car.
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You'll need to do a diff teeth count to be at all certain. See my post No. 12 for details. when a Subaru has a 'wrong ' gearbox fitted in relation to the chassis plate details DO NOT assume that it has had the correct rear diff fitted.
9 times out of 10 they haven't done anything with the rear diff.
Good luck - David
9 times out of 10 they haven't done anything with the rear diff.
Good luck - David
#23
You have been sent a TY 754 which is a 99 onwards gearbox and would have been [ see below ] a good upgrade.
BUT I expect that you have been sent a UK box with the wrong final drive ratio and the clunk was the centre diff breaking. Because it doesn't fit your car.
Now you have a problem 'cos the breaker [ or whoever ] sold you the box is unlikely to take it back broken - you'll need to make a lot of noise to do so.
OR you send it to someone like us and we'll create a box that does fit and is compatible with your car.
The simple test to see if I am right, is to take off the rear gearbox case exposing the drop gears that transfer drive proportionately front and rear.
Count the teeth on the gears:
30 : 30 is JDM type I.E. a VB box which is what you need.
30 : 33 is UK VN type box
Good Luck - call if I can help
David APi
BUT I expect that you have been sent a UK box with the wrong final drive ratio and the clunk was the centre diff breaking. Because it doesn't fit your car.
Now you have a problem 'cos the breaker [ or whoever ] sold you the box is unlikely to take it back broken - you'll need to make a lot of noise to do so.
OR you send it to someone like us and we'll create a box that does fit and is compatible with your car.
The simple test to see if I am right, is to take off the rear gearbox case exposing the drop gears that transfer drive proportionately front and rear.
Count the teeth on the gears:
30 : 30 is JDM type I.E. a VB box which is what you need.
30 : 33 is UK VN type box
Good Luck - call if I can help
David APi
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ok after readin this thread im confused on sunday my 2nd gear got destroyed so im after a gear box for my98uk turbo2000 my box code is ty752vn6aa but will a TY752VN5BA fit without any problems
cheers
cheers
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just a quick one api, you put uk diffs are 3,545. but before i changed my uk95 early classic to a ty754. most if not all the rear diffs came up as 4.11 & the australian ones were the 3,545
i dug up what i throught was every thing to find out any issues refgards changing things over.
the only differnce to changing from a ty752 & the 54 is you need to thread the casing on the lower bolt to fit the starter on.
and the casing is a little tight when fitting if you have a td05
apart from that. is there anything else needed?
this link is some thing very simmerler to what i looked at.
but very helpful:
http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinyco...ite/tc_28.html
i dug up what i throught was every thing to find out any issues refgards changing things over.
the only differnce to changing from a ty752 & the 54 is you need to thread the casing on the lower bolt to fit the starter on.
and the casing is a little tight when fitting if you have a td05
apart from that. is there anything else needed?
this link is some thing very simmerler to what i looked at.
but very helpful:
http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinyco...ite/tc_28.html
Last edited by dabow; 10 August 2009 at 05:19 PM.
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just a quick one api, you put uk diffs are 3,545. but before i changed my uk95 early classic to a ty754. most if not all the rear diffs came up as 4.11 & the australian ones were the 3,545
i dug up what i throught was every thing to find out any issues refgards changing things over.
the only differnce to changing from a ty752 & the 54 is you need to thread the casing on the lower bolt to fit the starter on.
and the casing is a little tight when fitting if you have a td05
apart from that. is there anything else needed?
this link is some thing very simmerler to what i looked at.
but very helpful:
The SPDA - Transmission Chart
i dug up what i throught was every thing to find out any issues refgards changing things over.
the only differnce to changing from a ty752 & the 54 is you need to thread the casing on the lower bolt to fit the starter on.
and the casing is a little tight when fitting if you have a td05
apart from that. is there anything else needed?
this link is some thing very simmerler to what i looked at.
but very helpful:
The SPDA - Transmission Chart
ALL UK 5 speed transmissions have 3.9 front ratio and 3.545 rear ratio with a 1.1:1 step off. No other 5 speed transmission final drive has ever been offered on a UK car [ P1 aside, as that is an STi 5 in disguise ]
Anyone / any website that tells you otherwise is wrong.
4.111 is a JDM ratio WRX any year from 1993 to 1999.
No point in getting into Aussie stuff, it is not relevant here
David APi
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RIGHT: Once again;
ALL UK 5 speed transmissions have 3.9 front ratio and 3.545 rear ratio with a 1.1:1 step off. No other 5 speed transmission final drive has ever been offered on a UK car [ P1 aside, as that is an STi 5 in disguise ]
Anyone / any website that tells you otherwise is wrong.
4.111 is a JDM ratio WRX any year from 1993 to 1999.
No point in getting into Aussie stuff, it is not relevant here
David APi
ALL UK 5 speed transmissions have 3.9 front ratio and 3.545 rear ratio with a 1.1:1 step off. No other 5 speed transmission final drive has ever been offered on a UK car [ P1 aside, as that is an STi 5 in disguise ]
Anyone / any website that tells you otherwise is wrong.
4.111 is a JDM ratio WRX any year from 1993 to 1999.
No point in getting into Aussie stuff, it is not relevant here
David APi
but befor i changed my standard uk box & diff to that of a p1/sti v5
every thing i checked said that my box came with a 4.111 rear diff
and the box was also on a mcray edition
it was on here i posted the thread before i went ahead.
its just when you think you coered every aspect. some one comes & puts a damper on you.
again, not disputing that. to me its just another learning curve
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its ok mate, i'm not desputting what you say
but befor i changed my standard uk box & diff to that of a p1/sti v5
every thing i checked said that my box came with a 4.111 rear diff
and the box was also on a mcray edition
it was on here i posted the thread before i went ahead.
its just when you think you coered every aspect. some one comes & puts a damper on you.
again, not disputing that. to me its just another learning curve
but befor i changed my standard uk box & diff to that of a p1/sti v5
every thing i checked said that my box came with a 4.111 rear diff
and the box was also on a mcray edition
it was on here i posted the thread before i went ahead.
its just when you think you coered every aspect. some one comes & puts a damper on you.
again, not disputing that. to me its just another learning curve
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RIGHT: Once again;
ALL UK 5 speed transmissions have 3.9 front ratio and 3.545 rear ratio with a 1.1:1 step off. No other 5 speed transmission final drive has ever been offered on a UK car [ P1 aside, as that is an STi 5 in disguise ]
Anyone / any website that tells you otherwise is wrong.
4.111 is a JDM ratio WRX any year from 1993 to 1999.
No point in getting into Aussie stuff, it is not relevant here
David APi
ALL UK 5 speed transmissions have 3.9 front ratio and 3.545 rear ratio with a 1.1:1 step off. No other 5 speed transmission final drive has ever been offered on a UK car [ P1 aside, as that is an STi 5 in disguise ]
Anyone / any website that tells you otherwise is wrong.
4.111 is a JDM ratio WRX any year from 1993 to 1999.
No point in getting into Aussie stuff, it is not relevant here
David APi
Thats incorrect information.