My type r's rear end goes mad on acceleration even in a straight line, the rear end slide's out and sometimes fishtails on launch, i turned the dccd up 2 notches however it still does not grip well, its twice as worse in the wet!

The car has currently still got its original tyres on it from when it was shipped over from japan which are yokohama c-drive's with about 5mm of tread, the suspension is all uprated with whiteline parts and the geometery has been professionally setup, any ideas?

Maybe i need to invest in some Toyo R888's :norty:

mite be snow tyres.
great for going round.

It should be twice as bad in the wet!
For a launch you could lock the dccd all the way, just remember to unlock again before you start turning :)
You should take your car to a handling course or similar, to see, in a comparably safe environment, how your car behaves, the dccd setting for a handling course will be up from open, but not as locked as when you launch.

888 will give amazing grip when they are warm, but running on streets odds are that they will not be warm when you do a red-light launch, and so have amazingly bad grip... And there's not much thread on them so be even more careful in the wet (extra so as you probably won't get them warm at all in that situation)

Would certainly invest in some tyres that work in the cold/damp/wet.

Most yokos don't offer such properties (with some exceptions). Unlike Michelins PS2, for example.

Also I'd check what rear anti-roll bar you have fitted. If its adjustable, could be set too stiff, which won't help at all.

So which tyres do think i should go for, ive been looking at R888's, proxes T1s and R, and goodyear Eagle F1s...

I've had Eagle F1s on there and more recently I changed to Michelin Pilot Exaltos (can't get Pilot Sports in my 205/50/16) size. Never ever have a problem with fishtailing/wheelspin etc. No fancy diff on my old WRX though. The Pilots are superb tyres wet or dry.

I run a fairly stiff rear end - rear strut brace, Whiteline alloy drop links and 22mm adjustable ARB on the hardest setting, KYB dampers with Eibach lowering springs.

Did you get any sort of tramlining on motorways with the the eagle F1's ?

i got toyo proxys on my classic, and it sticks like hell in the wet, but in the dry i get the usual understeer... no susp upgrades either....

i get tramlining on motorways but only due to the divets where the trucks sit in the road.

R888's are really noisy, like MTB or Land Rover type whine....

T1S are quite soft but not as soft as the above ! ! !

Is the rear geometry allowing too much rear end movement, mine was really stable on factory settings, but once adjusted the rear became really twitchy in the wet.
HTH

DunxC

Toyo Proxy T1s (stopped making now) or T1r & Eagles F1 are excellent
R888 will deterirate too quick for normal driving at cold temps etc

First thing i would do is get rid of the jap tyres, both of my imports came in with rubbish snow tyres, they are lethal!

Just be a man and enjoy the drifts :norty: :norty:

Hi

My understanding is that the Type R doesn't handle at all like other Impreza's (maybe 22B?), so not sure how useful advice will be from owners of non Type R's? It really acts like a rear-wheel driven car when driven hard.

If you have an adjustible rear anti roll bar than maybe slacken that as mentioned above. My Type R has never wheelspun or fishtailed from a standing start and I never have the DCCD set at more than one notch up from the open position. I have Toyo Proxes T1r's on my car.

Can't imagine that Toyo R888's will help you in any way at all. In damp/cold conditions, of which we get plenty, you'll really struggle for grip, probably more than you are/were in the first place.

The Type R can be a right handful in the wet I agree. 'Safe' practice and a wet handling course is defo the way to go IMO...

Mark.

Lol, a bit like my old twin turbo six speed Supra in the wet, or the dry come to that. Sounds like fun to me.

Wanna swap for my STi...

R888's are not suited to our roads or climate, they are more of a track tyre than anything else.
Tyre wise have a look at the T1 series if you want toyo, forget the yoko's, i dont rate them anywhere near the competition, though the goodyear eagles have some rave reviews i found them to be a little lacking in the "feel" department, but the new vredstein? tyres are meant to be very good or if you want the best, go for the michelin, though you will pay for the priviledge.

Tony:)

Hey i must admit my Type R is exactly the same, and when you don't have any ABS either it gets a bit scarey....but you can get it to drift quite well :)

Jimmy

Just bought some Apex coil overs as well to see if that well help...well let you know....

The DCCD should be in auto, to set it in anything else will only give you less grip.

How does it behave in auto ???

If it does the same thing there maybe problems with it. The usual problem is the rear diff temp sensor is not conected. If this happens the DCCD won't activate at all which gives you rear wheel bias.

I wouldn't recomend using the DCCD in lock on a launch.

I'm in Orrrrrstralia, and here the R888 are a really good poor conditions grippy tyre.

Hey,

The Type R's dont come with the newer type auto DCCD, there just a manual switch where the driver of the car controls the setup.

Cheers
Jimmy

Arrrrrrrrr, sorry different here.

You can retro fit an auto DCCD controller. I have one fitted to mine.

I can have maximum lock at launch with the G-Forces from the steering input reducing the lock during the turn and it also applies a little lock under braking too.

Wayne.

And I still have ABS!

Wow, was it difficult to retro fit an Auto DCCD controller?
Do you need many parts?

Would love to do this to mine!

And you have ABS!?! Would love ABS!

Spiider’s DCCD Shop (http://www.dccdpro.com)

Jeff has a few easy to wire in controllers available. He will shortly being supplying one which integrates with the STI LED cluster in the dash.

Wow, thats great!

Did you wire yours in yourself was it quite easy?
Which model did you go for?

Also does it make a difference with the level of grip etc going in and out of corners with it fitted?

Cheers
Jimmy

Jimmy,

I did indeed wire it in myself. I have used a relay to feed power direct from the battery and have an on/off switch to enable or diable the system. There are 2 wires that go to the DCCD itself and apart from the power feed to the unit, there is only 1 wire to the TPS. The g-sensor is mounted just behind the gearlever using epoxy resin.

The feel from the car is great. I find that I have less understeer in corners now and that was my main aim. So fo me the open diff work sfine for 90% of road driving.

I pushed it a bit hard the other day around a trafic island (in the wet) as a muppet was in the wrong lane and nearly took me out. I floored it in second and the car drifted really nicely and the LED I have wired in was lit so the controller was doing its job. I have the system set to half way on the tumbwheel.

The LED is wired across the DCCD supply wires and lights whenever the controller activates the DCCD. The brightness of the LED is proportional to the amount of DCCD locking applied.

It lights under the following conditions, but bear in mind that the position of the thumbwheel dictates how much force is needed for the DCCD to operate.

1) Under accelleration. It lights when booting the car in first and second even with the wheel nearly all the way back (nearly open diff). Winding the controller forward means that less accelleration is required to provide DCCD reaction. With the wheel all the way forward I get FULL diff lock with either accelleration (launch type accelleration) OR 50% and above throttle.

2) Under braking. As above but with no throttle applied and under braking the G- Sensor activates the DCCD. The amount of lock is proportional to the g force measured. Emergency braking forces release the diff lock completely which is why the ABS still works.

3) Cornering. This is the best bit. When braking into a corner the DCCD applies some locking force and lowers this force depending on the severity of the cornering. More steering input, less lock. Less braking is also less lock.

When getting back on the power number one apllies (accelleration above) but is reduced depending on the factors listed in number 3 here until the car straightens up again. It increases the lock as the steering input reduces and accelleration increases.

So its a combination of all three and to be honest you dont even know its working for you, which is the best situation.

The last thing to mention is that 50% throttle would be needed in snow or mud for the car to lock the diff. I have modded mine to apply a 5v signal to the same input as the TPS. This coupled with the wheel fully forward gives constant and maximum diff lock when switched in. After a few camping trips and being stuck in a field I decided this was an important feature to add.

The newere controllers that are both manual and auto already have this built in but I cant think why I would require a variable manual mode.

Anyway, hope this helps,

Wayne.

Wayne,

That was great!
Thank you so much for writing all of that up!

Was a great help! You are a king of the DCCD world.

I have spoken to Spiider and am gonna get the deluxe controller when it comes out this month.

My type R obviously has the factory fitted DCCD so with the deluxe version i can use the wheel still and lock the diffs for 0-60 sprints but also see when the automatic box controlls my diff using the lights on the dash.

I never knew any of this was out there, and i think its gonna transform my car :)

Cheers Guys!!!

Jimmy

what are the main differences between a type r and 4 door wrx that would cause it oversteer more is it just the gearbox?

The type R and type RA have a completly different center diff setup.
Instead of most of the power from the engine driving the front wheels like in a normal subaru most of the power drives the back :)

I am sure someone else on here can add the ratios and more details.

Cheers
Jimmy

65 rear and 35 front with the open diff with all 4 wheels gripping the same amount. Dont get into discussing how much torque goes where as this depends on the grip available to each end of the car and the amount of lock of the diff.