Can someone answer this please
15 August 2014, 05:49 PM
#32
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ok the advice will be taken and i shall get it rolling roaded and checked out, any recommendations pretty close to me? i live on the wirral btw
15 August 2014, 05:50 PM
#33
Why should he take it to a specialist? He's asked a question on a forum, and despite the chit-chat, there's obviously at least one person here that knows what they're talking about and given some decent answers.
If the point of the forum is to say .... Nah we can't answer that, or explain anything, just take it to Joe Blogs down the road - then the forum is a waste of time & space and the threads are useless.
If the point of the forum is to say .... Nah we can't answer that, or explain anything, just take it to Joe Blogs down the road - then the forum is a waste of time & space and the threads are useless.
With respect to the OP, he hasn't got a clue about subarus hence him coming on here asking all sorts of questions which mostly revolve around the mods to his car, he's had nothing but trouble with it since he got it. He seems a decent lad and a few of us on here would hate to see him hit more trouble and end up forking out for a rebuild when a simple health check could save him the trouble.
Now it's all well and good spouting this, that and the other over the internet, whether it be right or wrong and I believe you have already given some incorrect information to the lad due to a lack of reading properly and some confusion, (that's not a dig by the way) but it is an example of what can happen on a forum
he's a newb that at least had the smarts to come on here and ask and we are all here to help in what ever small way we can.Now if he decides to roll the dice based on some slightly wrong information you gave out are you going to stump up £3k for his rebuild.
I think we both know the answer to that one,
you'll be pointing him in the direction of my post no doubt. 
Based on my experience with Subarus, they are not a car you want to leave anything to chance with especially when it comes to fueling, so I believe we have come full circle back to the first few posts, lean is bad and over fueling is bad.
I think we all know why lean is bad, over fueling is bad because it leads to bore wash which will lead to fuel in the oil which will mean the oil wont be doing it's job and with Subaru crank bearings being sooooooo thin it will end in rattle rattle knock before too long, that's if it doesn't det it's **** off and explode a piston first.
15 August 2014, 06:18 PM
#34
Agreed, however.
He's also not sure if the car has been mapped for any of the mods it has and since he doesn't have any logging software or an AFR gauge he and everyone else will only ever be guessing as to whether or not it's fueling correctly throughout the rev range.
Some like yourself may be prepared to take a punt which is all well and good if the car started off as standard and you know exactly what's been done, but in his situation i'd just spend a small amount of money and have it checked for peace of mind, then on the day when he does give it some proper beans he'll be able to do so safe in the knowledge that it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do.
He's also not sure if the car has been mapped for any of the mods it has and since he doesn't have any logging software or an AFR gauge he and everyone else will only ever be guessing as to whether or not it's fueling correctly throughout the rev range.
Some like yourself may be prepared to take a punt which is all well and good if the car started off as standard and you know exactly what's been done, but in his situation i'd just spend a small amount of money and have it checked for peace of mind, then on the day when he does give it some proper beans he'll be able to do so safe in the knowledge that it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do.
15 August 2014, 08:03 PM
#35
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So this leaves the decat. I expect there are a plenty of decatted cars out there that haven't had a remap, and again this thread should show that it might benefit from one in terms of the WGDC change, but is this REALLY going to mean his engine is going to explode in a fireball tomorrow? I doubt it,
It's not about it might be benifical it will at some point overboost.
Overboost = lean afr.
Lean afr = high combustion temps (and very high nitrous oxide emmisions, but that's a different discussion)
High combustion temps = pre detonation (knocking/pinking whatever you want to call it) of weak afr
Pre detonation of weak afr = 2 things.
1. Untold extra stress on little and big end bearings = ENGINE FAILURE.
2. An even faster rate of increasing temps causing a nice hole in the top of your piston and this means
ENGINE FAILURE......
That's the risk you run when your ecu is not correctly calibrated for the parts on your car. It is actually quite black and white.
15 August 2014, 08:33 PM
#36
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There is quite a bit of history behind the question though.
With respect to the OP, he hasn't got a clue about subarus hence him coming on here asking all sorts of questions which mostly revolve around the mods to his car, he's had nothing but trouble with it since he got it. He seems a decent lad and a few of us on here would hate to see him hit more trouble and end up forking out for a rebuild when a simple health check could save him the trouble.
Now it's all well and good spouting this, that and the other over the internet, whether it be right or wrong and I believe you have already given some incorrect information to the lad due to a lack of reading properly and some confusion, (that's not a dig by the way) but it is an example of what can happen on a forum he's a newb that at least had the smarts to come on here and ask and we are all here to help in what ever small way we can.
Now if he decides to roll the dice based on some slightly wrong information you gave out are you going to stump up £3k for his rebuild.
I think we both know the answer to that one, you'll be pointing him in the direction of my post no doubt.
Based on my experience with Subarus, they are not a car you want to leave anything to chance with especially when it comes to fueling, so I believe we have come full circle back to the first few posts, lean is bad and over fueling is bad.
I think we all know why lean is bad, over fueling is bad because it leads to bore wash which will lead to fuel in the oil which will mean the oil wont be doing it's job and with Subaru crank bearings being sooooooo thin it will end in rattle rattle knock before too long, that's if it doesn't det it's **** off and explode a piston first.
With respect to the OP, he hasn't got a clue about subarus hence him coming on here asking all sorts of questions which mostly revolve around the mods to his car, he's had nothing but trouble with it since he got it. He seems a decent lad and a few of us on here would hate to see him hit more trouble and end up forking out for a rebuild when a simple health check could save him the trouble.
Now it's all well and good spouting this, that and the other over the internet, whether it be right or wrong and I believe you have already given some incorrect information to the lad due to a lack of reading properly and some confusion, (that's not a dig by the way) but it is an example of what can happen on a forum
he's a newb that at least had the smarts to come on here and ask and we are all here to help in what ever small way we can.Now if he decides to roll the dice based on some slightly wrong information you gave out are you going to stump up £3k for his rebuild.
I think we both know the answer to that one,
you'll be pointing him in the direction of my post no doubt. Based on my experience with Subarus, they are not a car you want to leave anything to chance with especially when it comes to fueling, so I believe we have come full circle back to the first few posts, lean is bad and over fueling is bad.
I think we all know why lean is bad, over fueling is bad because it leads to bore wash which will lead to fuel in the oil which will mean the oil wont be doing it's job and with Subaru crank bearings being sooooooo thin it will end in rattle rattle knock before too long, that's if it doesn't det it's **** off and explode a piston first.
15 August 2014, 08:40 PM
#37
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i cant argue with any of this as its true i dont have a clue about subarus really as this is the first performance car ive had, i should have took my time shopping round but never i did just jump in but hey lesson learnt for next time, if people in the know say get a health check then trust me a health check is what she will get asap, i may be abit stupid as regards to how a car works but not stupid enough to ignore good advice when i ask a question
It's all very well asking questions on here, but like everywhere else on t'internet, there's no quality control. However if you stick around long enough you'll soon learn who gives you safe advice, and who the chancers are.
15 August 2014, 09:06 PM
#38
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The op is doing the right thing by asking the questions he has and it sounds like he has met or got friendly with other enthusiasts. Use their experiences and recommendations and you shouldn't go to wrong.
16 August 2014, 07:49 AM
#40
It's not about it might be benifical it will at some point overboost.
Overboost = lean afr.
Lean afr = high combustion temps (and very high nitrous oxide emmisions, but that's a different discussion)
High combustion temps = pre detonation (knocking/pinking whatever you want to call it) of weak afr
Pre detonation of weak afr = 2 things.
1. Untold extra stress on little and big end bearings = ENGINE FAILURE.
2. An even faster rate of increasing temps causing a nice hole in the top of your piston and this means
ENGINE FAILURE......
That's the risk you run when your ecu is not correctly calibrated for the parts on your car. It is actually quite black and white.
Overboost = lean afr.
Lean afr = high combustion temps (and very high nitrous oxide emmisions, but that's a different discussion)
High combustion temps = pre detonation (knocking/pinking whatever you want to call it) of weak afr
Pre detonation of weak afr = 2 things.
1. Untold extra stress on little and big end bearings = ENGINE FAILURE.
2. An even faster rate of increasing temps causing a nice hole in the top of your piston and this means
ENGINE FAILURE......
That's the risk you run when your ecu is not correctly calibrated for the parts on your car. It is actually quite black and white.
17 August 2014, 07:34 PM
#41
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Hi all I think everyone will have there own opinion of you should map and should not map. End of the day, if you want to be safe and perhapse have a few more horses go and have it mapped. 500ish quid for peace of mind is nothing compared to a rebuild if the worst is in fact happening.
18 August 2014, 09:39 PM
#42
Exactly, you "don't think" you need to.... but you don't actually know - whereas many people with far more years experience than you say better safe than sorry if you have made a significant change ie a different intake system or decatting it for instance which would cause a major change in breathing.
Given that the OP's car had been running like a bag of ****e my view FWIW is that it definitely needed looking at by someone who knows what they are talking about.
Given that the OP's car had been running like a bag of ****e my view FWIW is that it definitely needed looking at by someone who knows what they are talking about.
18 August 2014, 11:51 PM
#45
To put it simply, No you dont need to remap INSTANTLY if something changes, but for longevity and survival of the engine, IF DRIVEN ON BOOST ALOT, yes, a remap will help aid its survival.
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