grunj

So I've always had a desire to learn how to fix the cars I drive, being a petrolhead but never really had 2 cars that allowed me to work on one and drive the other. Now that my Scoob has b*ggered her engine, possibly headgasket, and I have another daily drive, I get the chance to delve into the deep, dark and murky world of rebuilding engines. My previous experience was changing filters, oil, plugs, bulbs and cleaning the throttle body on a G4GTI.

Now I expect the learning curve to be insanely steep and have to take it one part at a time, but it should be possible, with due care and marking and labeling things, to be able to strip the engine bay, pull out the engine and do an inspection and replace the gaskets right?

What books/manuals would you suggest? Haynes I would assume is a must, any other good ones out there? Oh, and the obligatory project thread when she gets delivered.

beliblisk

iTrader: (16)

Just to give you and oversight over your project

GIBZY

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna watch this closely.. If you don't completely ***** it up then I will do it tot project

Have a go though..... What's the worst that can happen!!

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

There is no reason you can't do it yourself. But it's certainly not quick and easy.

There are many many areas you can get wrong which will cause complete engine failure at a later date. As far as I know there never has been an impreza haynes manual. No idea why? There are Subaru workshop manuals around the web but I can never find one for my MY00 they all tend to be earlier or later cars.

I thinks it's just a case of take your time and ask lots of questions, do a lot of research and hope for the best when you turn the key. There are things that obviously you won't be able to do like skimming the head or block if it is needed. Also there is the fairly well known issue of Impreza's loosing big end bearings after a head gasket replacement so might be worth doing everything while you are there.

An extensive set of good quality tools is also a must. If you try and make do with cheap badly fitting tools it will end in tears. In the past I have ended up spending more on the tools to do a job then the parts or anything else and that's what makes a lot of projects so expensive when you DIY it. For example if you don't have one already you are going to need a torque wrench and to be honest probably a couple of them as the torque values will be too wide for one wrench. A half decent one will be at least £80 so two of those and that's £160 before you start. It all adds up. Things a tube of 3 bond will cost you £25. A seal set will cost you £150-300 depending where you go, head studs, dowerty seals, cambelt kit, and so on and so on. Then there are things that make sense to change while you are there if the engine is still on old stock items like the oil pump, water pump etc. So factor all this in when you budget for it. I usually end up spending about 3x what I was originally going to and it usually takes me 3x as long as i planned.

grunj

Hahaha Gibzy! The chances are particular high that I completely ***** it up, but hey, at some point every mechanic had to work out which way to turn a screwdriver...

Thanks Beliblisk, I've watched those several times to try and work out whether it's possible, and if I do the right admin work along the way, then I dont see why I shouldn't be able to. I've also been watching these:

grunj

Thanks for the pointers FMJ. Yip, this will be taken very slowly and very carefully. I've already spent a ton of money on getting her put right as the guy that had her before did everything the wrong way around. My intention is essentially that. As I go along, I will replace and upgrade things that I can see could do with an upgrade that I would normally not see when a mechanic works on it. Plus you get to see exactly what condition everything is in and can plan the appropriate fixes as you go.

You are right about the engineering work. I could never do anything like that, and already have contact details for a recommended crew local to me.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

It's not difficult if you have the right sort of mind set, ie a good memory for how things come apart and go back together, take a few good quality photo's of the engine bay too before you start, this would have saved me a few silly questions and some time when I did mine.

Go into the technical archive section and download the STI 04 manual, it's the most useful one. There is no haynes manual for Subaru Impreza turbo.

I kept my laptop close with the page I was working from on display and kind of do it monkey see monkey do, I'd also make sure i'd read the section a few times so I was clear in my mind what I was doing, I found making notes of torque settings along the way helpful too and also general notes as it help things to stay in my mind if I write them down.

Lots of us on here have done it so there are plenty of people that can help, i'm a bit rusty mind as it was a couple of years ago now, but i'd take on another one no problem if I was in the UK with everything available there.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

No worries, I added to that post too. It is something I am doing for the first time too and I am spending £1000's on parts... if it goes bang I wont be doing it again so fingers crossed!

grunj

100% agree, and that's why the DIY route seems to make the most sense. It costs more initially tooling up, and taking time to learn everything, but once you have them, you have them. I've already thrown over £2500 into her getting stuff done, imagine if I had spent that into getting tools and sundries...

There is no 'budget' as such, not because I have endless cash because I don't, but I will just keep plugging away and buying whats needed as its needed all the while saving up for parts and upgrades.

Short term, I want to get her back on the road and driving, reliably, but longer term I will be wanting to do all the base upgrades before adding much more power.

So far, she has a set of very expensive pirelli's on, de-cat 3" DP, straight pipe all the way to the back box, exedy stage 2 clutch, vented and dimpled brakes, allegedly an uprated fuel pump which I can't confirm, what seems to be powerflex bushes set front and back, K&N panel filter, and a map that supposedly is pushing close to 330bhp on the stock turbo.

When I got her, she had the zorst, fuel pump, map, panel filter already but on OEM clutch and brakes, and horrific tyres. Clutch was slipping in 3rd every time and brakes were completely useless.

So you can see it's already a labour of love

grunj

Thanks ditchmyster, some good advice there. I will definitely be labelling everything, taking plenty of photos, and trying to understand the entire system before disconnecting everything. Thank goodness for the Internet, how did they survive without it... hahaha!

*says someone who remembers having to use encyclopaedias to research stuff*

grunj

What is everybody's favourite tool site to get some quality tools? Got quite a bit from B&Q but hardly what you would call quality. Being on the Isle of Man, our choices are fairly limited when it comes to walk-in shops.

scooby87

iTrader: (5)

As said above give it a go, I did mine over a year ago and still runs like a dream. Depends how much a rebuild you need though as to how easy it will be.

Headgaskets would be a piece of cake, full bottom end rebuild a bit more time and research will be needed.

If you have a big budget order Snapon, if you don't I find halfords pro stuff to be pretty dam good

brizrs

To be honest my tool kit (which is quite extensive) is 98% Halfords Professional range and Machine Mart and I've been using it (and building up the collection) over last last 15 Years as I've worked on various land rovers and Rally cars (Escorts & Peugeot 205 and soon to build an impreza rally car, hence joining the forum!), only had one issue when the ratchet mechanism went on a 1/2" drive but Halfords replaced under their lifetime warranty with no hassle.

grunj

We don't have a Halfords, that I know of, on the Island. Not sure if they will deliver here to the Isle of Man, will have to check. Thanks for the tips and pointers

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Halfords professional range really are awesome. I would see if they deliver. The website often has sets with huge discounts.

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Why not have a wander up to the PACE octagon workshop up at Union Mills as its on your doorstep and have a word with the guys there for a bit of honest advice on tackling the job yourself.

Mick

grunj

Never heard of them, but will check them out, thanks. Part of this project (when I get the car and create the thread) is to get things done, but also to fulfil a desire of wanting to learn how things work, and the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself. But if they can offer advice, or help with certain thing that I can't do then definitely up for a chat.

Thanks Mick

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

You might want to have a look a blue point tools too, I think they are the same as snap on without the same price tag.

I love tools and have been collecting them for 30yrs it's always worth spending that little bit extra on quality as you'll have it forever, a good well organised tool box is a must, a place for everything and everything in it's place.

I's amazing how 8mm and 10mm sockets and spanners disappear into a space worm hole along with screwdrivers.

I also find a wide roll of masking tape, food bags and a marker pen very useful for all your nuts and bolts, you'll be needing some good quality penetrating oil and wire brushes of varying sizes too, spray and clean everything the the day before you start.

dj219957

ive just "had a go" on my 93wrx

the symptoms were blowing bubbles out of the overflow by the battery after a hard run. it had been doing it for years but had suddenly got a lot worse.

the car is worth only a £1000 and the respected engine builders would want 2k plus as they will advise you refresh the bottom end.
As stated the early car have a bit of a habit of knocking after a head gasket change. The bearings will be up to 20 years old and once the tops of the engine are refreshed compression is restored and it can be enough to finish them off.
see my thread here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-question.html
Best way to save money is the borrow tools from mates :-)
From memory you ll need:
breaker bar
8 sided sockets 1/2 inch drive - up to 22mm I think.
Torque wrench
Mole grips to clamp pulleys
You ll need to make a clutch alignment tool from a 1/2 drive allen key and some black tape.
Something to hold the cam pulleys while you crack the nuts.
something to hold the flywheel to remove front pulley and clutch etc.

(don't use the torque figures from the service manual on here!!! some are wrong!!!)
You CAN reuse some gaskets and the piston rings. I would not reuse dowtey washers. you can reuse the head bolts.

dj219957

oh p.s its just done a couple of hundred mile round trip to north wales and shes running perfect, no oil or water use and no bubbles. thrashed most of the way there and back.

DJB3

I had to take a 3.0 H6 engine out twice on our Subaru Tribeca to fix a number of cylinder related problems (long story). The 2.0 H4 is not dissimilar and is actually a lot easier to work with because of it having a cam belt rather than chain.

My advice:

Source good engine crane to take out and put back engine. I used farmer friend's tractor but I guess that's not conventional.
Download and print off relevant sections of official workshop manual. You can get discs on ebay for pennies or google ken gilbert website. Supplement this with Youtube and general internet info.
The right tools are very important. I prefer 8 point sockets - they are less prone to rounding off corroded nuts and bolts (Stanley Fatmax set has been excellent for multiple jobs). You'll also need a 1/4 inch set and a high and low range torque wrench set (both can be purchased for under £30).
Get a good gasket sealant (Three bond 1280b seems to work for most situations but you won't get it in Halfords.
Decide where you're going to get parts. Dealers are expensive. Importcarparts are much cheaper and can supply OEM stuff. Avoid cheap ebay parts.

If you're replacing head gaskets always skim cylinder heads first.

DJB3

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals has MY99-01 manual

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Subscribed. Some really good info in this thread already
Hope all goes well for you and look forward to the updates during the build

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Not a UK turbo tho. It all relates to the US 2.0 NA model. So most/all of it is useless .

Rob669

I'd recommend for tools in addition to what others have said - a really good light source, a variable speed 13mm drill and HSS/cobalt bits for removing seized parts if all else fails and I've found a white marker pen has been useful. A good size and weather proof workspace with a radio helps.

grunj

Some amazing advice in here guys, thank you so much!

grunj

Right, so after life has thrown lots of "fun and games" my way, I managed to get a start to this today. Going to start a project thread soon for anyone who wants to follow and lend some advice.

dj219957

just done this. headgaskets went on my 93wrx. so I rebuilt with acl bearings and and genuine sti gaksets. total cost £350. car has since done two tracks days and runs like a buet. go for it! and yes I used that first vid.

grunj

Thanks man. Taking it slow and steady as isn't my main driver, so can afford to take my time and do it properly. Thread to start soon hopefully.