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i used it and i think it worked which me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
not looked at bottle yet-do u have to use it at oil change time-or can u just add it whenever?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tath
i used it and i think it worked which me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
Here's a quote I found interesting from David (APi engines)..
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
i used it and i think it worked which me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
dosent have to be a serious detergent, i believe the main ingrediant is
Petrol
it only has to weaken the crud the pressure will do the rest..
thank u-sounds good advice-mine does go quiet after a min-and i think API engines know what they are talking about as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswrx
Here's a quote I found interesting from David (APi engines)..
Assuming the noise doesn't fade after a few minutes from start up it is probably gummed up or weak hydraulic lifters. It is worth trying to clean them up with a simple but effective remedy.
Drain out half a litre of oil from the engine and refill using 1/2 litre of ATF auto transmission fluid. This marketed by a number of companies as ' hydraulic lifter cleaner' and you'll pay a tenner or so for about a cupful.......
My way should be rather cheaper and just as effective.
After 300 miles with the cleaner in drain off all the oil and refill with oil of choice and a fresh filter. Try not to red line the engine during the 300 miles just drive ' normally'
what caused mine i think is it had wrong grade oil put in-apparently zetec engines are very fussy what oil they have-and wrong oil was only in for about 1000 miles
Last bottle I looked at was just various detergents and viscosity improvers.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
mine is ok when hot-just noisy when cold-and in this frost its even worse lol-just a tad worried that if valves are not closing properly etc can that burn a valve out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Last bottle I looked at was just various detergents and viscosity improvers.
You get the same from changing the oil more often. Which lack of regular oil changes is the usual cause of the problem in the first place - especially on the iron block zetecs, where IMO Ford's service intervals were pushing the limits of the recommended oils they used. When Ford switched to the thinner oils to address pump up issues, it didn't help matters. As the thicker oils they used to use were better at keeping them quiet when hot.
Oh right it's worse when cold, so a tappet is draining down overnight and not re-filling. Ignore my rubbish on the thicker oils then
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've had improvements by changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
god knows what side of engine lol-im sat on drivers seat lol-but for first few beats of engine its got a differant sound-hard to explain-but sounds like its not beating right-hopefully someone can put into words the sound i hear lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Oh right it's worse when cold, so a tappet is draining down overnight and not re-filling. Ignore my rubbish on the thicker oils then
A drained tappet causing slack clearances won't cause the valve to the burn out, as the clearance actually means the valve is shut and the noise is caused by the gap between the tappet and the cam.
Unfortunately, now my brain has just kicked into gear - there is a flipside where a sticking valve causes the same noise (and that will burn out). The latter very rarely happens these days unless you have bent valve (usually from a cambelt failure that's not been correctly repaired) or excessive varnish deposits on the stem (never happens in this day and age), so it shouldn't be anything to worry about.
More likely to be a gummed up tappet- Can I hazard a guess...right hand side of the engine on the exhaust cam? That usually the favourite.
Personally I've had limited sucess in using tappet treatments products. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't, and in some cases I've improvemnets changing the oil at several close intervals. And some fix themselves after a good long motorway blast with the revs held above 3000rpm for an hour or so. Not much help, but that's the way it is!
Advice from David from API is always good since he knows what he is talkng about. I would try what he says and if that does not clear it then you have to be prepared to change the tappets.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APIDavid
DO NOT put flushing oil in a Subaru Impreza - EVER. I know this car on the thread is a Mondeo, but comments like trying flushing oil might temp a few Subaru owners too.
How good is wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment
me... It purports to clean the little hole on the lifter so oil can fill it properly, but i don't see how this would work without some *serious* detergents, and if they are that serious, i don't want them swishing around in my engine.
