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Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?
Haynes: Should remove easily.
Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with a hammer.
Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.
Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.
Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...
Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (industrial size).
Haynes: Ease ...
Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...
Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Crikey what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!
Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.
Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".
Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!
Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!
Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?
Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).
Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.
Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!
Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company.
Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!
Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath.
Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!
Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!
Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.
Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.
Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.
Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!
Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone
Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.
Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.
Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!
Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain spanner or length of bicycle chain.
Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.
Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.
Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid. Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.
Haynes: See illustration for details
Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model.
HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE spanner: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper- and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact spanner that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.
PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 pence part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
1980's - Learn how to take apart and fix all of your car
Engines - gearboxes - diff's - & body trim with wiring diagrams
1990's - Learn how to fix your car
Engines - diffs - body trim - basic wiring diagrams
2000's - Look at pictures of your car
Engines - body trim - spanners to show how difficult the jobs is - flow diagrams of electrical circuits
2010's - Identify your car
Plug it into a diagnosticom - replace what is says -
Repeat until the fault goes away - all jobs 9 spanners (hard) - wiring diagrams top level overview
Take to garage
1980's - Learn how to take apart and fix all of your car
Engines - gearboxes - diff's - & body trim with wiring diagrams
1990's - Learn how to fix your car
Engines - diffs - body trim - basic wiring diagrams
2000's - Look at pictures of your car
Engines - body trim - spanners to show how difficult the jobs is - flow diagrams of electrical circuits
2010's - Identify your car
Plug it into a diagnosticom - replace what is says -
Repeat until the fault goes away - all jobs 9 spanners (hard) - wiring diagrams top level overview
Take to garage
lol
Mart
Probably the most accurate statement I have read on SN for some time. Waste an entire weekend fiddling about trying to fix a fault and fail. Take it to a garage who will also waste an entire day fiddling about to fix the fault replacing perfectly serviceable parts in the process charging you plenty for their time.
1980's - Learn how to take apart and fix all of your car
Engines - gearboxes - diff's - & body trim with wiring diagrams
1990's - Learn how to fix your car
Engines - diffs - body trim - basic wiring diagrams
2000's - Look at pictures of your car
Engines - body trim - spanners to show how difficult the jobs is - flow diagrams of electrical circuits
2010's - Identify your car
Plug it into a diagnosticom - replace what is says -
Repeat until the fault goes away - all jobs 9 spanners (hard) - wiring diagrams top level overview
Take to garage
lol
Mart
Good one Mart
The list from the Op is so accurate too because taking old machines apart and all that goes with that is always awkward to say the very least. Things are always rusted solid and the corners are often gone off the nuts as well threads being on their last legs. Helicoil came into being on the back of all that!
1980's - Learn how to take apart and fix all of your car
Engines - gearboxes - diff's - & body trim with wiring diagrams
1990's - Learn how to fix your car
Engines - diffs - body trim - basic wiring diagrams
2000's - Look at pictures of your car
Engines - body trim - spanners to show how difficult the jobs is - flow diagrams of electrical circuits
2010's - Identify your car
Plug it into a diagnosticom - replace what is says -
Repeat until the fault goes away - all jobs 9 spanners (hard) - wiring diagrams top level overview
Take to garage
lol
Mart
Aye, the last Hayes manual I had was for my MKV XR3i
Syncro on third gear started playing up so I flick to the gearbox section to see about rebuilding it only to find:
"The repair or overhaul of the MTX75 transmission is considered to be out of the scope for the DIY mechanic" WTF!?!?
Yet in the previous chapter it gave instrctions on how to strip down and rebuild the engine
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Some people get by with a little understanding, some people get by with a whole lot more.
Location: Working in Belfast and living in Bangor, N'orn I'ron
Posts: 1,410
Having used these manual's when working on several car's over the years the instruction seem pretty simple and can be easily performed... if you have a large workshop with every single tool ever invented and the thing that you are trying to work on isn't attached to the car, not lying on your back under a car on a dark drive way and using a pair of vice grips and a hammer
windyboy
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oh look !!! we can now have signatures
when I bought my first Mini Cooper (1968 vintage) as a student in 1982, I could barely change a wheel,
yet, armed with my trusty Haynes Manual (1959 > 1969), over the next 10 years I rebuilt/rewired the entire car - several times
LOl at the several times in 10 yrs, obviously you did a quality job each time then
There not bad if you spend the night before reading it then attempt the job, as opposed to looking at the pictures, just to check you got the right section, quick scan, but don't read it properly as i can see from the pictures what needs to be done, start the job then when all your efforts fail, start reading it properly, wish you never started the job and spend the rest of the weekend trying to get it back how it was, so you can drive it to the garage.
All that stuff is the difference between a decent mechanic and the rest of us, I think people think mechanics just beat greasy things with hammers until they work, in reality a good one combines a lot of skills, skills that translate well elsewhere.
Haynes manuals are great but these days I find a specific guide on the Net is the best as the photo's generally arent taken with a black and white camera from 1805 and look like a "what is it" puzzle photo.
Haynes manual explained...
I can relate to most of that. 
