Sheared Bolt Removal
 

After someone drove into my front nearside wing I am having to replace it.

After undoing all the bolts in the engine bay and around the headlight I had just three to go.
2 in the door reccess and 1 along the bottom of the car.
The 2 hidden behind the door came out with ease as did all the bolts in the engine bay.
But as always, you get near the end thinking this is going too well something must go wrong soon surely, AND it does.
The final bolt along the bottom of the car sheared off.

Now I know there's some real knowledgeable people on this forum.
Can anyone assist me in the removal of this sheared bolt?

Many thanks

Can you pop it through?

If so maybe try using a centre punch and a club/normal hammer.

Not the best advice but hope it helps.

Depends where it is, but you could drill it out and retap the hole.

Hi guys. Can't pop them through.
I'll have a go at drilling and retapping.

have you tried a screw extractor? Drill a smaller hole in the centre of the bolt, insert screw extractor and turn. Sometimes they work great. Other times you appply so much force that they shear off and make the subsequent drilling a right pain.

Is the other end of the bolt hidden? If not you could have a go at that end?

Screw extractors are useless if the blot has sheared because it is rusted in. If the screw was tight enough to shear the screw head off, in 90% of cases you will just snap the extractor, and then drilling it is nigh on impossible.
I would drill it out, start with a new 3mm drill and get it as straight as possible, then drill it 5mm, and then re tap M6.

Jamie

Best advise here mate^^^ :thumb:

Thanks for the responses guys.

Just done the same removing the other bleeding wing too.

Gonna have to go the drill root. Can't very well access the other end of the bolt from under the car.

Hoverbod's advice is good but if the sheared bolt is in such a position that you can get to it with a blowlamp (i.e not next to painted bodywork or fuel lines etc), then drill your pilot hole, heat it up good and proper and then it should come out with an extractor (or eezi-out as they are sometimes called).

File the top of the broken bolt flat (will stop the drill drifting to one side)
Centre punch as central as possible (in case you end up drilling and tapping later)
Drill through to suit largest stud extractor without damaging threads.
Spray soak in WD40 or similar for 1/2 an hour.
Get a set of Stud Extractors (good quality shouldn't snap)
http://static.zoovy.com/img/usfreigh...a6pcspiral.jpg

Voila...Bobs yer Uncle.

If that doesn't work then drill and tap to suit.

Thats what I would try anyway.....;)

can u weld a bolt onto it,the heat from the weld will help it release too

bump.. and hijack, but what does re tap the hole mean?

just preempting problerms im likely to have, as ill be removing my up pipe on a 95 wrx, and will probably be a right nightmare !

You can get a stud remover thats similar to the extractors, but the female version. If theres enough exposed shank for the tool to get a good purchase on then itll work.

[QUOTE=Style;8289883]bump.. and hijack, but what does re tap the hole mean?

QUOTE]


When you drill the bolt out, you'll knacker the thread in the frame. Tapping means to cut another thread into the frame, bearing in mind (obviously) the new threaded hole is going to be larger than before. And if you've never done it before it's a right chunt to do properly. The other way to do it is to get a threaded insert for the hole.

** IMPORTANT NOTE WHEN TAPPING - 1/2 turn clockwise, 1/4 turn back **