Holts Radweld - any good ?
 

Hi all
I recently posted a thread about a potential leak from the top of my radiator which is causing a bit of steam to come out of my scoop and my headlights but I can't get it into the garage till next Friday .
So I have just been advised to try using some holts Radweld and apparently it could solve the problem permanently !
Had anyone ever tried any of this stuff ? and if so did it or does it really work ?

DO NOT PUT THAT STUFF IN YOUR ENGINE!!!

It clogs up and gunks up the whole system, and CANNOT be easily gotten rid of.
Stop being so tight and get a new Rad, or second hand one at last resort.

If in doubt don`t drive it.

Radweld is EVIL stuff, unless your stuck in Siberia and it`s life and death.

As above its not ideal stuff to use except in extreme emergencys and even then radweld isnt the best. k-seal is a much better product to use in an emergency

it was a suggestion from someone, thats the whole point of these threads to get other opinions.
im not being tight as i said my car is already booked in to a garage but cant be seen until Friday so it was only gonna be a temporary fix :brickwall

Egg white will do the job better, and easier to unclog.

Seem to recall a car at Le Mans had a leak and used Radweld to seal the leak - went onto finish in the top 3.

2 bolts and hose clips doesnt need a garage bud diy it

Sorry k seal would be my choice

the symptoms i have is coolant around the top lip of the radiator and when i drive it and check under the bonnet its been blown all over my hoses and pipes etc from the force of the air coming in from through the front grille, and i have a liitle drip on the passenger side underneath the pan guard.
My temperature is normal and the oil is clean as a whistle as its just been serviced :wonder::wonder:
ive been told its a common fault that the top radiator seal fails and causes a leak hence why i considered Radweld or K seal as a temp fix so i can still drive it, i hate to see it sitting there especially now ive broke up from work for a week :cry:

any other suggestions what else it could be that i could check ???

New rad, ebay about 60 quid, I've had it on for four years no problems. And to about an hour from start to finish.

Rad weld leaves horrid sand like deposits in all the cooling system, and turbo water jacket, a new rad is not that dear, i would stay away from radweld mate, horrid stuff.
Jay

So is it an easy job to fit a new rad ? I have all the tools but never had to change one before

Very easy to do mate wont take too long, just take your time, and fill the cooling system back up nice and slowly when finished to bleed air.
Jay

And at the end of the race they threw the engine away, and didn`t have to worry about long term affects.

I`ve used gungum to fill a holed radiator, and will never use any type of in the water radiator repair.

Fair comment......

I had the same problem with mine slight leak from the top seal on the rad.
I went to a radiator restorer who couldn't fix it so I purchased a new 1 from him that arrived the next day £120. Fitted it that night took about an hour and about the same to remove it very easy DIY job

The heater matrix in my Berlingo van sprang a leak a few months back. It's dead easy to replace the matrix - all you have to do is remove the complete dashboard and it just unbolts...! As an alternative, my local garage sold me some of this stuff:

http://www.autokits.co.uk/forte-radi...leak-p-42.html

...which sorted it out in a couple of miles. It's still fine. I realise it's not supposed to be a permanent repair, but it saved me several hundred quid for labour alone, so I thought it worth the risk.

I have to agree with the sentiments being expressed here though. If you can manage to hang on and get a new rad fitted, it will clearly be better.

Move away from the Radweld!!

Depends where its coming from mate, Take it for a drive and build some heat/pressure up and see if you can see exactly where its coming from, I`ve used solder to fix a leak before now but it really depends on the leaks location.

steps to replace rad
1. Engine cold (only to avoid burns) undo the tap at the bottom of the rad on the offside (drivers) side of the car, this will allow the rad to drain. Collect this in a bucket if you wish to re-use ( or make sure you have some replacement coolant ready)

2. Undo all hoses connecting to radiator

3. Undo 2 mounts at the top of the rad (they also locate the bonnet stay)

4. (I think) the rad just lifts out now?

5. Remove fans and carriers from you rad and transfer to new rad.

6. Install new rad into car (reverse the removal process)

7. Fill coolant system with coolant.

8. Run engine with cap off coolant system, squeeze hoses to encourange the air to get to the header tank, top up as neccesary.

Done

S'netters feel free to correct anything with this ( im just trying to demonstrate the scale of the task) Easy to do really.

Hope this helps

crack an egg white in it that will sort it till you get to next week

Oh well thats me screwed then. i had a leak a while ago so chucked in some radweld. Not had no issues since.. Ive got a new rad now just waiting for a day to fix it

Guys, Subaru coolant conditioner = Radweld and is added whenever they change the coolant IIRC...

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...houghts-65712/

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sub...G4ap8QPZrbWxAQ

can't believe the timeing on this, my car lost coolent yesterday, on a detailed check this morning found two small jets frontside of rad. Will certainly source new rad and fit myself refering to this thread. thanks chaps:thumb:
Trev

Taking mine out for 10 min to get warmed up then head under the bonnet to try and find where it's actually leaking, wish me luck !

is it that radweld is bad only for subarus ? as i read dont use it or there will be problems, i cant help but think these comments overdoing it a tad, i have used radweld in my bmw and it ran for next 5 years no problem.if radweld knackered engines up like that surely there bottles would not be seen in halfords, shell garages or world wide market for that matter i say this as i have used it and so far no problems. other option of course is a large repair bill. poss a new engine or strip down for new head gasket.

Get a new rad FFS and stop pi**ing about
£60 max and an hour to fit max
It's a no brainer

ok i get ya,how likely is it to be the rad? thats the question i have if its the rad then yes no problem i will get one fitted, as timing belt needs doing as well. thanks tone

It's quite Likely to be the rad , it is very common for them to crack around the top
Have a close look and you will more than likely find a hairline crack that's opening up when water temp & pressure increases.

And in response to your initial reply which you edited , yes £60 max , brand new , because a mate had the same problem just two week ago , iirc he payed less than £60 including postage

im to f222ing late now, i used the radweld. now its a case of see what happens. will take a look around top of rad as u suggested. chears tone

a new rad is 30 quid on ebay. dont bother with rad****, its bull****