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wow thats nice wish i could do that all myself i would love a race machine im in a classic hoping to achive 320bhp in the comeing month prob not much to yourself lol. just so i can get it in my head how much budget would i need for a build like this
I have probably forget something, but feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Engine:
EJ25 Custom closed deck bored to 100 mm CP ratio 8,7:1
Cosworth 100mm Pistons
Cosworth H - rods
Cosworth Billett crankshaft
Cosworth heads
Cosworth intake valves
Cosworth exhaust valves
Cosworth cams
RCM adjustable exhaust camsprockets
Kevlar timingbelt
Cosworth timing belt guide
Cosworth 0.7 mm headgaskets
Litchfield high flow waterpump
Custom made water routing
Cosworth reversed Intake manifold
70 mm trottle body
Custom made dynamo bracket
Custom made exhaust manifold in Inconel steel (made by Neil Clark)
Garrett GT35 series turbo
Tony Rigoli Oilpan
Moroso 3-stage drysump pump
Earl's filter relocator
Petterson's oiltank 3 gal(fitted in trunk)
Koyo radiator
1600 ccm Injectors
Custom made fuelrails
Custom made fuellines
Aeromotive fuelregulator
Bosch 044 x 2 high pressure fuelpumps
Aeromotive A1000 feeding pump
All fuel and oil lines made from Stainless steel braided hoses/aluminium tubing with AN fittings.
APS DR525 intercooler with custom made piping
Exhaust temp on each sylinder
Watertemp
Oiltemp
Oilpressure
Fuelpressure
Intake temp
Boostpressure
Custom made external cooling for:
Oil
Gearbox
Rear diff
Servo oil
Fuel
Driveline:
Exedy 3 plate clutch
JDM 6 speed close ratio gearbox
Sti GpN LSD Front diff
DCCD centerdiff
Cusco 1,5/2 way rear diff
RCM Carbon Propshaft
DSS stage 5 rear axels
DSS front axels
06 Sti front hubs machined to fit 5 x 100 bolt patter'n and coilovers from 03 model
06 Sti rear hubs machined to fit 5x100 bolt patter'n
Handling:
Proflex EVO 3 55mm coilovers
Drummond Motorsport top mounts front and rear
Whiteline swaybars
Whiteline adjustable rear trailing arms
Whiteline/Sti GpN bushings all over
Brakes:
Tilton TC600 pedalbox
All brakelines custom made
Hydraulic handbrake
Original Sti Brembo calipters
Performance friction floating brakedisc front
Performance Fricton 01 brakepads Front and rear
StopTech rear brakedisc
Exterior:
Cusco front lip
Cusco/custom made aluminium undertray
RCM Bonnet vent
S204 rear wing
Interior:
OMP WRC driver seat
Schroth 6 point harness
Custom Cage weld in roll cage WRC spec
OMP steering wheel
Carbon door cards
Windows:
Front: WRC with heat
front sides: original
rear sides and rear: Lexan
Wheels:
OZ Ultraleggera 8x17
Speedline Course 8x17
Original STi 7,5x17
Speedline 5,5x16
OZ racing 5,5x16
wow thats nice wish i could do that all myself i would love a race machine im in a classic hoping to achive 320bhp in the comeing month prob not much to yourself lol. just so i can get it in my head how much budget would i need for a build like this
Based on that spec list, I would be guessing in the region of £40 000. Might even be more, as the Motec options are very expensive.
interesting that you have kept the standard brakes where everything else is such high end spec...any issues with them?
I've only upgraded the pads and disc's and I think they work quite well.
I have a plan of making new hub's of my own spec so maybe I will go for some other calipters then. I have looked on some Performance Friction calipters but they cost approx £2000 each so it's quite expensive...
I want to stick with 17" wheels becouse the diameter on these wheels fits the gear ratio very well. And I have 24 rims in this size so it will be big extra cost to change to any bigger.
I've only upgraded the pads and disc's and I think they work quite well.
I have a plan of making new hub's of my own spec so maybe I will go for some other calipters then. I have looked on some Performance Friction calipters but they cost approx £2000 each so it's quite expensive...
I want to stick with 17" wheels becouse the diameter on these wheels fits the gear ratio very well. And I have 24 rims in this size so it will be big extra cost to change to any bigger.
Hi Sjobing,
AP Racing would seem the obvious choice as they are so well proven. If you don't want to spend that much though, I have found the K-Sport very good. They are much lighter than the stock Brembo's and fitted front and rear the car brakes almost completely flat, which allows me to carry more speed into the corners. The definitely outperform the Brembo's by quite a big margin.
AP Racing would seem the obvious choice as they are so well proven. If you don't want to spend that much though, I have found the K-Sport very good. They are much lighter than the stock Brembo's and fitted front and rear the car brakes almost completely flat, which allows me to carry more speed into the corners. The definitely outperform the Brembo's by quite a big margin.
What kind of pads do you use with your K-sport and whats the Ø on the discs?
I know AP is a very good choice, but I really like the how the Performance Friction disc's and pads I'm running in combination with the stock calipters now perform, so that's way I consider this.
I can adjust the brake bias as I want on my car, so I can make it perform in braking just as I want. :-)
What kind of pads do you use with your K-sport and whats the Ø on the discs?
I know AP is a very good choice, but I really like the how the Performance Friction disc's and pads I'm running in combination with the stock calipters now perform, so that's way I consider this.
I can adjust the brake bias as I want on my car, so I can make it perform in braking just as I want. :-)
I use the DS2500's, but the car gets used a lot on the road, so the pads must work from cold.
Not sure what you mean by Ø, but if you mean the PCD, then it is 114.3.
There is a lot of info on this old group buy thread if you are interested. New K-Sport Brake Kit Group buy
Dynamix was running Performance friction disks and pads with his stock Brembo cailpers for a while in the Time Attack series and has now changed to a set of K-Sports. His project thread is here RaceDynamix STi - Time Attack 2009
@ STIFreak: By Ø I ment the diameter of the disc's.
I will drive my first race for the season next weekend in Sweden and here's a list of the cars that will start in my race:
Dodge Viper
Golf GTI
Mazda RX7
Chevrolet Corvette Z06
Subaru Impreza HTS (my car)
Porsche 959
BMW M3 DTM
Porsche 911 RSR
Studebaker
Dodge Viper
Volvo 242GT
Porsche 993 RS
Ford Sierra
Ferrari 355
Chevrolet Corvette
Camaro Cup
Lotus Europa
Camaro Z 28
BMW M1 Sauber
Chevrolet Camaro
BMW 320
Chevrolet Monte Carlo
Pontiac Trans AM GT-1
I think this can be rather intresting to se how I can perform among these cars. . .
It's been some weeks since I posted something here, so here's a litle update:
Before I went to Sweden for the race there I had some marks added to the car:
The race in Sweden didn't go as I wanted...
On the secound round in Race 1 I lost my 4. gear, and on this track this is the most important gear.
So in this race I got 6. in my class and 19 overall.
Since the gearbox didn't make to much funny noises I desided to participate in the secound race as well. And in this race I ended 3 in my class and 9 overall.
So I think it went quite well when I had a broken gearbox...
This is how the gearbox lokked like inside when I got home and opened it:
Where are the theets of my 4 gear.
Here they are...
And the transfeer gear axle to the prop shaft looks like this...
I have rebuilt the gearbox with a new JDM gearset now, but I need something stronger so if anyone has a suggestion please come with it.
I rebuild my gearbow with a new JDM 6 - speed gearset becouse my freind had one on the shelf.
I put everything togheter again, and went to the track again for the last races of the season (this was in the beginning of sept).
After I had been trough the check in, I heard a noise from the engine I didn't like.
I did really want to drive this weekend, but since I don't have all to much money I decided to let the car stay in the pit and just watch the racing on the track.
When I got home I pulled the engine out and teared it apart. And here was the problem:
The cylinderwalls on #2 and #4 had started to crack so this block wasn't any got any more...
So I ordered a new block from my friend in the US that they have sleeved for me, so hopefully this willl hold togheter a litle longer.
Sleeved block with my used pistons installed:
I also bought new Headstuds from Cosworth:
I have rebuildt the engine now with all bearings and gaskets new, and will install it into my car again tomorrow.
I also did a photoshot of the car in mid september for an Australian Magazine.
From the location of the photoshot:
I'm not allowed to publish any of the photos taken of the pro photograper yet, but he worked for almost 6 hours and got some realy nice shots.
The next plans now is to get the motor in the car tomorrow and put some brake in miles on it before I take it on the dyno again to do some more tuning.
Hopefully I will be done with this in this month, so I can pull the engine out and re-torque the headstuds, put in the new buildt 6-speed PPG box , change brakes, springs and front bumper before christmas so the car is ready for the ice track in the beginning of january.
wow, what do you think caused the crack in the block? make sure to post the feature pics when your allowed
I think the 2.5l block is just to weak when you will go for 500 hp ++. I have bored this block form 99.5 to 100 mm as well and maybe this to much?
I have a very conservative timing map, and I'm running E85 so I'm pretty sure that there was no knocking causing this. This was on my "break in map" also so I was only running about 17 - 18 psi boost.
