swisstonihasher

Hi all,

My 2nd car is a ford cmax TDCI, great drive (not as great as scooby but costs lots less) but I have issue with egr. Already tried ford forum:

I know this is a well known issue for the earl focus cmax diesel models but not really found a decent fix for it, I've got the dreaded EGR valve sticking at times you really dont want it to (pulling away at junctions) and only had the car two months....any idea best fix for this without costing the earth? I think there's three options but which is best and most cost effective?

1, replace egr valve with new but believe ecu needs update because valve changed?
2, Try a egr blanking plate? loads listed but anyone tried one? Makes sense as wont matter if egr stuck and ecu will still read as working.
3, Aftermarket egr valve or have ecu reprogrammed, anyone tried this?

r1c

iTrader: (9)

Blank it off mate, just need abit of plate with holes for the bolts to go through.
You can fit a new valve, don't know who told you it will need a PCM reprogramme, that's crap, you are supposed to reset the learned values, this is only to make sure it fully closes when asked, I take it your valve is stuck open?? Usually the case, you'll be fine to fit a new valve. Either way the PCM is clever enough the reset it self eventually

swisstonihasher

Funny enough I'd just finished reading a couple of forum responses to blanking off the egr, some came up with "increased cylinder temps could cause engine failure" but think that's load turd. Most say runs better, better mpg and engine inlet stays cleaner...so that sounds good to me and should have no issues with MOT. I'm going to get wynne egr3 cleaner as well to give the inlet a clean up, then fit the blanking.

PS In response to question, it's not stuck all the time...car runs fine most days, then others it sometimes has a fraction lumpy idle and fuffy when on light loads, you can usually tell when it's going to play up. The worst it does though (which can be scary) is go to pull away, gives you bit of power then cuts power...car will then idle but not rev or very fluffy if does revs so you end up being stuck half way out of a junction! Ah! Twice in 2 months since I bought it.

steviefastbikes

I would suggest the egr is cleaned so it works then blank it off at both the exhaust inlet and the manifold feed.
This will ensure it doesnt bring on mil. As it is the valve jamming not flow that causes fault.
I have done this to a few transit connects for a local company and the drivers love it as it drives way better.

swisstonihasher

Cheers for tips, will do.

r1c

iTrader: (9)

Don't think you can clean it, I briefly remember speaking to you about something else, is it a 2.0ltr (dv10) ? If so its a stepper motor type and not advisable to strip. The 1.8 in the connect is a mechanical type.
You only need to blank off one end, into the cylinder head, you'll have a job to blank the other end as its on the cooler and you'd need a perfectly round piece to fit inside the clamp.

swisstonihasher

Eye, 2lt. I've sorted it, funny enough with a spare washer I had lying around which has 5mm hole in it. Fits 100% perfect to the metal pipe (EGR end), refitted and checked for leaks..all good and car definately sounds happier when cold and warming up plus throttle response seems bit better as well. Only troulbe now is the bonnet catch has broken but I think the local garage did that whilst trying to refill the air con today...argh.

swisstonihasher

Dam, decided a few weeks back to go for a complete egr blank plate to replace the washer with hole, wish not fitted it now as PCM light came on the next day after fitting. Car now seems down on power...must be limp mode.

Anyway, tried pulling the egr electrical connector and found that didn't change anything, then tried putting plate in with 4mm hole and still PCM light stays on and car runs not quite as sweet. The real annoying part is on the day of fitting the complete blanking plate the car ran lovely and was better than having a washer, spool was better, idle perfect from cold, etc, etc but next day PCM light came on.

Questions, does PCM fault stay on ecu till it figures out to test/reset itself? I've read a few runs may do it.
Do I really need a hole in egr when she's a 2004 2l model with euro 3 on vech spec sheet?
I hate egr valves...