edsel

iTrader: (2)

I'm considering fitting ARP replacement con rod bolts on OE conrods. Are the standard bolts hard to remove? The only way I can see to remove them is with a stud extractor
Is there any point fitting ARP bolts to standard rods?

Cheers

Steve

stedee

iTrader: (4)

is your engine out btw , you do realise you have to strip then engine down as in split the block halves. i think it will be better with arp bolts, is it a newage then cos i think classics have nuts and the bolts are on the rods.

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

As above.
If they are classic rods with studs and nuts for the cap, then the rods will need to be resized when fitting ARP replacements.

Mick

stedee

iTrader: (4)

ahhh quickread your post, now read it properly, presuming it is a classic, I would get a set of low mileage newage sti rods, they are alot stronger. Think I paid £60 for mine, can run 450+

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies. Yeah its a standard 1995 wrx bottom end rebuild. Ive seen these:
http://www.futuremotorsports.com/ARP...EJ20-Rods.html

At that price it looks good value, that is if the original studs can be removed without engineering work.
Other than placing the rods in a vice and using a stud extractor or percussion engineering I cant see how the OE bolts/studs are removed

Im not looking for big BHP on this engine, I just want to over engineer the bottom end for reliability if you get my drift. I have a limited buget.

MOTORS S GT

iTrader: (2)

Your rods have the interference fit bolt & nut, your best & cheapest route is replace with newage bolt type rods, that is the type the bolts in your link are for, the early nut type rod are weak, compared to newage rods, & as mentioned by Merlin they will require resizing if you change bolt type to any rod.

You can pick up newage rods for less than the ARP bolts listed, i have several sets kicking about.

Primeiro

Im not looking for big BHP on this engine, I just want to over engineer the bottom end for reliability if you get my drift. I have a limited buget.

If you wish to achieve as above then go for quality aftermarket conrods, if you wish to improve on what you have then run the newer age conrods as stated.

But comes down to what you are going to be doing with the engine, iv run standard new age rods in grp n rally engines, obviously that is a competition enviroment and regulations. The standard rod has done the job and I hear some people have used these in high horsepower engines and had no faults.

Look at funds and where you want to be when finished, might make sense to put a forged set of rods in.

All the best.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Very interesting, this is the first Ive heard about new age rods being fitted to a classic. it seems like its a common mod.
My engine is an early wrx ODB with 52mm crank pins. Is there a new age model rod that will fit with no engineering work?

Ive got my block split, It has NOT suffered bottom end failure. I'll be getting the crank checked for run out next week and will be starting the rebuild in the next few weeks if the cranks serviceable.
This build is on a buget so I can use the car ASAP.

What model new age has the same diameter rods as an early classic?

Cheers

Steve

stedee

iTrader: (4)

Afaik, all the 2 litres fit not sure about the 2.5s

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Newage EJ20/EJ257 rods are the same length of 130.50mm.


Mick

Primeiro

Hi Edsel

It is usual practice when anyone is giving there short block a refresh to use the new age rods.

Source a set and use them in your rebuild.

All the best with the rebuild.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Gents.

Thanks for the sound advice. New age rods purchased.

Steve

stedee

iTrader: (4)

Good move, might aswell get some forged pistons lol

wms-racing

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MESE:IT

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Great price on the williams rods, maybe on my next CDB build. Piston upgrade next