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Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
Nice job their silent have heard about the chuff chuff syndrom their is a link in the group buy that goes through this and turns out a weaker spring is the answer Let us all know how you get on to resolve the issue of the chuff chuff
My front splitter turned up today held one of the corners against the bumper and it looks spot on and this will still allow air to pass over the centre bar allowing the air to cool the bottom of the front mount that hangs lower than the bumper
Well I'm already on the weakest Forge spring so I stretched it to twice its length then cut it in half and it seems to have worked. It's definitely made a difference and it's a lot smoother on light throttle although still at half throttle the problem's there to a lesser extent. At full throttle you can drive through it anyway. Going to think up another way of fixing it.
Nice job their silent have heard about the chuff chuff syndrom their is a link in the group buy that goes through this and turns out a weaker spring is the answer Let us all know how you get on to resolve the issue of the chuff chuff
KIP
i had a very similar problem i resolved it by fitting the reducer that comes with the power intake.
rob
Nice one, confirms what's been discussed on the other thread I started about this. I'll keep my eyes open for a standard DV. Also been given a tip about restricting the diameter of the inlet pipe as well.
Nice one, confirms what's been discussed on the other thread I started about this. I'll keep my eyes open for a standard DV. Also been given a tip about restricting the diameter of the inlet pipe as well.
Rob - which restrictor?
with the apexi power intake for 95 cars it comes with an alloy reducer that can be fitted inside the pipework.the reducer is about 22mm od with about a 12mm hole through the middle.
rob
Whereabouts does it fit - inside the air intake pipework? In a vacuum line somewhere?
it fits inside the pipe between the fm pipework and the dumpvalve.i have a 95 wrx dv which has a 22mm take off so i have a 37>22mm samco reducer and the reducer is in there. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...arch070181.jpg
rob
Well I've tried out a standard v4 DV now and it has made a big difference. It's minimised the surge to a quieter chuffing noise which is now at 1 bar boost or above, meaning I can now drive on part throttle and not really encounter it at all. I can live with it now at least. I'd still like to fix it and suspect fitting a really high flowing DV like a Turbosmart plumb-back or APS twin vent would sort it out for good, but I'm not made of money, so I'll stick with the original DV for the time being.
Now it's mapped for the FMIC (with an extra 4 degrees of advance over the old TMIC), it's so fast at 1.4 bar that I broke the AP clutch, so it's off the road to have a new clutch and flywheel fitted. I'm investigating various options for when it's back on the road including maybe fitting a TD05 instead of my VF35 which may be a bit undersized now I've got the FMIC kit on.
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
Had a weekend of fun trying to fit a bugeye splitter on a classic got there in the end;
Need some opinions on wether to paint the splitter all black or the two outer parts silver and leave the centre bar black
And should the side vents be black or silver
Had a weekend of fun trying to fit a bugeye splitter on a classic got there in the end;
Need some opinions on wether to paint the splitter all black or the two outer parts silver and leave the centre bar black
And should the side vents be black or silver
KIP
looks like you done a really good job...silver side vents; more subtle and they'll make the front splitter contrast more
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaytc2003
Kips, question for you.
I also have a 93wrx and on my induction pipework, I have my filter, then the maf (same as yours) but then I have a bulbous bit which connects to the plastic turbo elbow. You dont have that on your, have you always had what you have got there or is it from a replacement car? If so what is it from or what is it? Mine is causing issues with it resting on the actuator arm when the bonnet is closed.
Cheers
SORRY BUDDIE Missed this thread my induction is an apexi power intake conversion my car came with the alloy piece between the maf and the turbo it uses the original subaru pipe to the turbo that take the breathers and the dv pipes
got any pics of yours might be able to suggest a way to solve your problem
HOT TIP!!! My FMIC outlet pipe (the one that runs vertically in front of the cambelt cover) had been rubbing on the cover and worn it through so you could see the belt, just by the side to side rocking of the engine. Be very careful! Even if it looks like the pipe just about fits, it's too close to allow any play.
So the secret is, stick it in a vice and squash down and ovalise the whole section from the bottom where it turns to go vertical, right up to a couple of inches from the top where your hose will go. That way you still have the same flow but totally solve the clearance problem.
As many people have found out, these FMICs hang down a couple of rows below the bumper and it looks pretty lame, plus is a little too vulnerable down there for my liking. So after a bit of searching I found the P1 splitter which has three slots in the middle for air to go through onto the FMIC's bottom rows. It's like it was made for it, but isn't too fussy looking.
Anyway, here's the before and after pics on my MY98 WRX wagon with an early bumper. The grey look to the splitter is Halfords 'dark grey' bumper paint which was a perfect match for the standard plastic side skirts going by the colour on the cap, but came out really light when painted and dried. So I'm going to do it black, but overall I'm well pleased. It balances up the car which now looks a lot tougher with matching skirts/valances/splitters all round. And of course it covers over the FMIC bottom without interrupting airflow too much. Perfect!
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
LOOKING GOOD SILENT I looked at the P1 splitter to but wasn't sure if their would be fitting issues on the early classic bumper but turns out the one I got for a bug eye was a PITA but got their in the end just need to get it painted now
Let us know what differance you find when you drive it have you jad it mapped yet?
Well it's still mapped for the old VF35 / FMIC combination which was bloody fast, but surged badly. I've just fitted a new TD05-16G so waiting to get that remapped now.
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
Just brought my next mod some 440cc injectors got a 255walbro coming need a fuel reg next
Can i run the injectors without the remap yet as wont to get all mods done first then get it mapped the once
hi have just fitted the fmic from the group buy and think its a good idea to upgrade to the above clamps,wondered where you got yours from and wot was the cost many thanks and good fitting guid by the by Ed
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by biged4244
hi have just fitted the fmic from the group buy and think its a good idea to upgrade to the above clamps,wondered where you got yours from and wot was the cost many thanks and good fitting guid by the by Ed
i used your write up today to fit my fmic to my classic and it saved me and my dad a hell of alot of time as we could find the "hidden bolts" with out to much hassel getin them off was another story though!! well done for putting all the time in so its an easy job for some of use thanks
Let us all know how you get on to resolve the issue of the chuff chuff
