replacing brakes and discs
02 July 2006, 05:01 PM
#1
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replacing brakes and discs
hi guys. really as above...
im not really mechanically minded as yet as ive not been driving that long, but i wouldnt mind giving a go to changing my discs and brake pads myself.
ive got a 95 wrx so it has discs front and back. obviously first i would find out what discs and pads i needed and buy them first. what im after really is the "how to do it" part lol. is it easy enough or a real bugger to do if your in my situation. im not totally dense
just not tried this one before and dont really know whats involved.
i would appreciated any help on taking the discs and pads off and getting the new ones on (same size etc - straight sawp)
OR
should i get it done at a garage??
THANX IN ADVANCE
im not really mechanically minded as yet as ive not been driving that long, but i wouldnt mind giving a go to changing my discs and brake pads myself.
ive got a 95 wrx so it has discs front and back. obviously first i would find out what discs and pads i needed and buy them first. what im after really is the "how to do it" part lol. is it easy enough or a real bugger to do if your in my situation. im not totally dense
just not tried this one before and dont really know whats involved.i would appreciated any help on taking the discs and pads off and getting the new ones on (same size etc - straight sawp)
OR
should i get it done at a garage??
THANX IN ADVANCE
03 July 2006, 09:59 PM
#2
Scooby Regular
Heres a little guide I knocked up a while ago 
2 pot front disc replacement instructions:
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
Undo the lower bolt holding the calliper on and remove the bolt.
Now undo the top bolt a few turns so you can swing the calliper up.
This should leave the pads on the disk.
Remove the pads!
Push the pistons back with a G clamp (It's easier for 2 pots than the 4's)
Take off the Calliper carrier bracket (2 bolts right round the back that will be @%*$ tight!!)
Once the calliper and carrier are off the disk should just fall off (if not give it a tap)
Remove all the $hit on the mounting face of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to stop the disk seizing on.
Clean the new disk with brake cleaner and on it goes!
Put the carrier back on followed by the calliper and top bolt.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads. Once fitted, push the calliper over the top.
Replace the lower bolt and tighten both down.
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please seek professional help)
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!
I knocked these instructions up from memory so there may be a few mistakes. If you attempt this and it all goes wrong don't blame me
2 pot front disc replacement instructions:
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
Undo the lower bolt holding the calliper on and remove the bolt.
Now undo the top bolt a few turns so you can swing the calliper up.
This should leave the pads on the disk.
Remove the pads!
Push the pistons back with a G clamp (It's easier for 2 pots than the 4's)
Take off the Calliper carrier bracket (2 bolts right round the back that will be @%*$ tight!!)
Once the calliper and carrier are off the disk should just fall off (if not give it a tap)
Remove all the $hit on the mounting face of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to stop the disk seizing on.
Clean the new disk with brake cleaner and on it goes!
Put the carrier back on followed by the calliper and top bolt.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads. Once fitted, push the calliper over the top.
Replace the lower bolt and tighten both down.
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please seek professional help)
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!
I knocked these instructions up from memory so there may be a few mistakes. If you attempt this and it all goes wrong don't blame me
03 July 2006, 10:03 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
Rear disc replacement
There are 2 14mm bolts near the pivot and the caliper bolt you saw.
Take the caliper bolt out and remove the pads first.
Then remove the bolts holding the carrier to the hub and swing the assembbly out the way (don't let it hang on the hose).
You will probably have to loosen the hand brake shoes. There is a little rubber bung behind the back plate/hub. Pull it out and you will find a toothed wheel. Turn this downwards with a screwdriver and it should slacken the hand brake shoes.
The disc should now fall off, if not a tap with a hammer will do it
Clean all the mating sufaces on the hub and remove any protective oil film from the new disc (not forgetting the hand brake drum inside) before fitting.
Once fitted re tighten the hand brake shoes and replace the caliper and pads
Check the pedal before the test drive!!!!!! Pump it a couple of time to make sure the pedal is there before driving off
Please take it to a garage if your not confident. The last thing you want to fail on a car are the brakes!!!
There are 2 14mm bolts near the pivot and the caliper bolt you saw.
Take the caliper bolt out and remove the pads first.
Then remove the bolts holding the carrier to the hub and swing the assembbly out the way (don't let it hang on the hose).
You will probably have to loosen the hand brake shoes. There is a little rubber bung behind the back plate/hub. Pull it out and you will find a toothed wheel. Turn this downwards with a screwdriver and it should slacken the hand brake shoes.
The disc should now fall off, if not a tap with a hammer will do it
Clean all the mating sufaces on the hub and remove any protective oil film from the new disc (not forgetting the hand brake drum inside) before fitting.
Once fitted re tighten the hand brake shoes and replace the caliper and pads
Check the pedal before the test drive!!!!!! Pump it a couple of time to make sure the pedal is there before driving off
Please take it to a garage if your not confident. The last thing you want to fail on a car are the brakes!!!
03 July 2006, 11:23 PM
#5
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absolute diamond mate. really good thanks. theres a lot involved so i may take it to the garage i know, but i may try it in the future. any ideas on a price to replace these?
top fella
top fella
04 July 2006, 02:00 PM
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choco, if you're half handy with a spanner then it's easier than it sounds (dyney's guide is spot on btw..) however, the two caliper carrier bolts can be a right barsteward to undo, esp. on an older car. Helps as always if you have the right tools for the job but if you're unsure about what you're doing then get someone who does to do it. Brakes need to be done properly for obvious reasons..!
) however, the two caliper carrier bolts can be a right barsteward to undo, esp. on an older car. Helps as always if you have the right tools for the job but if you're unsure about what you're doing then get someone who does to do it. Brakes need to be done properly for obvious reasons..!
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